Jump to content

Unofficial Home of Old Simplicity & Allis-Chalmers Garden Tractors

Sovereign Battery Life


Roy

Recommended Posts

Had to put another battery in my Sovereign today. Bought it new in September, 1999. The original battery lasted until this month. That's 7 years and nine months. Not bad for a garden tractor battery. ^ Put the three year old battery from my 3212V (awaiting repair) in and it works fine. Sort of hurt to put a Ford battery (22NF) in my fine Sovereign but the price was right (free). :D
Link to comment
Share on other sites

HAd a few last 5 years. One six. However the one in the Lancer I bought new two years ago died this spring. Cant win em all I guess;)
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I think I need a new battery for my 3414. The one I have in there apparently is not the right battery as it does not sit fully down in the tray. Can anyone tell me what battery it uses?
Link to comment
Share on other sites

quote:
Originally posted by skunkhome
I think I need a new battery for my 3414. The one I have in there apparently is not the right battery as it does not sit fully down in the tray. Can anyone tell me what battery it uses?
22NF is correct. 51R can be used, but is a tight fit and has no hold down tabs like the 22NF has. I also have 51 batteries in mine with the posts turned toward the outside of the tractor instead of toward the gas tank.
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Roy, 22NF = 22 Not Ford, :O:D. I don't think that is what it actually stands for but that is what I have always been told. I think it's Narrow ??. If you can find a group 45 that is the same as the 22NF but the terminals are reversed. I doubt you can find one though.
Link to comment
Share on other sites

"I doubt you can find one though." Hopefully I won't need to. The battery from the 3212V is good and only three years old. When a 51R is substituted for a 22NF what is used for a battery hold down if the 51R doesn't have the lip on the bottom of the case??
Link to comment
Share on other sites

quote:
Originally posted by Roy
When a 51R is substituted for a 22NF what is used for a battery hold down if the 51R doesn't have the lip on the bottom of the case??
Gravity.:o)
Link to comment
Share on other sites

quote:
Originally posted by firefoxz1
Roy, 22NF = 22 Not Ford, :O:D. I don't think that is what it actually stands for but that is what I have always been told. I think it's Narrow ??. If you can find a group 45 that is the same as the 22NF but the terminals are reversed. I doubt you can find one though.
You can also put a 45R (reversed post) in there, they cost a little less than a 22NF (narrow frame).
Link to comment
Share on other sites

quote:
Originally posted by Roy
"I doubt you can find one though." Hopefully I won't need to. The battery from the 3212V is good and only three years old. When a 51R is substituted for a 22NF what is used for a battery hold down if the 51R doesn't have the lip on the bottom of the case??
Roy, does the 22nf have Automotive type posts? The unknown battery in my 3414 has automotive type posts but it has hold down lips on the long sides of the case that prevent it from going all the way down into the battery tray. Could my battery be a 51R?
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thom, "22NF = 22 Not Ford" Are your sure??????? Maybe "NF" stands for "narrow frame"? gregc, Gravity is great for a lot of things but I don't trust it to hold my batteries in on hillsides. :D Phil, Yes, the 22NF has automotive type posts. Was a perfect replacement for the original battery. The hold down lips are on the long ends of the case. Don't know what a 51R case has. Others here may be able to tell you.
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Probably not a 51R, my 51R has basically no hold downs all the way around the bottom. Also the 51R is supposed to be 1/16" shorter in length and 7/16" less in width than a 22NF, so it should fit in even easier than a 22NF.
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Roy, A hold down strap can be easily fabricated for a 51R. I have two of them with no hold down devices at all. The dash stops them on the right side and on the rear. The gas tank stops them on the left side. The starter bracket stops the battery in front. The hood would not let the battery come out of the compartment on top, but the tractor would have to be upside down for this to happen. All it needs is something as simple as a bungee to keep it from bouncing around due to the clearance around it. It can't come out of the tray.
Link to comment
Share on other sites

quote:
Originally posted by Roy When a 51R is substituted for a 22NF what is used for a battery hold down if the 51R doesn't have the lip on the bottom of the case??
A tie wrap and a pinch:




The tie wrap goes inside the metal straps that hold down the gas tank and prevent forward motion. The tractor hold downs pinch the sides of the 51R and prevent side to side motion (and somewhat help with vertical motion, but gravity does most of it ^)
Link to comment
Share on other sites

All, Nice to know the 51R is slightly smaller than a 22NF. Good battery size web site. "why not replace it with another simplicity battery." Excellent idea if I had not already had a good 22NF sitting in the garage. Although I'm afraid the original Simplicity Power-Max would be expensive. Regarding battery hold downs, I'm a little too compulsive/anal for bungee cords and tie wraps. Although I don't have show tractors they are bolted together correctly and work reliably. My first goal is to make them mechanically and electrically correct. Then, if I can make it look good too that's a bonus. Haven't needed to do it yet but feel that with a little thinking and some sort of spacers the stock battery hold down could be made to work with a 51R. I use closed cell Styrofoam beneath the batteries and between them and the gas tanks. On my 725 and B-1 I also put wooden strips between the battery and the clamp to ensure the battery is clamped securely and stays put. Thanks to all for you valuable input.
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Roy, Styrofoam, when rubbed, generates static electricity. You may want to re-evaluate this usage considering that a battery generates hydrogen gas when being charged.
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Rod, Think the key words in your response are "rubbed together". Vibration may create a slight rubbing effect but have never noticed any static electricity sparks in any of my tractors. All the metal parts are grounded to tractor chassis which accounts for no sparks. An insulator and a conductor, when sandwiched together, also form a capacitor but have been doing this for years with no problem. The Styrofoam type I use isn't the normal stuff. Is the more rubbery type. Don't know what the correct name for it is.
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I just replaced the dead 22NF in the 7016 project tractor with a 51R. I am going to cut away the 2 bolts that hold the front lip bracket and drill a 1/4" hole in the center of the remaining lip. Ditto for the lip in the rear. Then I'm going to use the common type rectangular battery holder with the 2 rods with a "J" on one end and threads on the other and, hopefully, that's it. I had a perfect storm of circumstances that resulted in a roll over a couple weeks ago. Going up a short, steep slope when points quit (lock nut was loose). I had just replaced the brake band with a used spare and it was working great. However, I think when I power washed looking for the transmission leak I did something to the brake. The brakes locked up completely and instantly (while sliding back down the hill) with the slightest pedal pressure. The tractor slewed and partially rolled at the very bottom of the hill. The manual lift lever props the tractor up a bit so the hood opens enough for the battery to fall out and begin arcing on the lift handle. Gasoline begins gurgling out of the tank into the same area. Fortunately my son, wife and a very big tow rope that goes to chain with hooks on both end were right there. The tractor was back on it's wheels in seconds. Washed off the gas and battery acid, bent the manual lift lever back to normal, topped off the oil, set the points, replaced (and secured) the battery and rubber hood straps and good to go. Moral of the story is all heck breaks loose if not properly secured on even a partial roll over.
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.
×
×
  • Create New...