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I HATE mounting tires (updated with tips)


Unkle Spike

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I managed to load the rear AG tires with Windshield washer fluid like one of the threads on here describes, worked like a charm. Now the fun, mounting new tires on the front, after wrestling with the first bead for a half hour, and not getting it completely on, time to hit the recliner. I have a headache anyway. I see the tip on bolting the rim with a through bolt mounted to a piece of angle. I will try that tomorrow. Also I am going to forge a set of tire irons. The screw drivers are too long for mounting the first bead, so I am going to fab something in the forge with the proper offset. Oh well, we can only get so much done in one day. Also, the Almond coloured implement paint from Tractor Supply is a pretty good match, not sure how durable it is, time will tell. See my post below for the easiest way I found to do this....
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Mounting tires ain't too bad. DIS mounting tires? A PITA..... Use lots of dish soap on the beads.
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I went to WalMart. They had to mount the tires by hand. They didn't have a code to charge me for the labor so they only charged me for the tires.
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I can make most any tool in my blacksmith shop within reason of course. I just need to ponder this one a bit and I will come up with something.... Like others have said, the major task is holding the wheel while you pull the tire on, so that is where I will start.... OK here's the best way I found.... Make this tool, if you can, it works much better.


The washer keeps the tire from "riding" up the tool like screwdrivers. Remove tires. I found it easier to use a needle nose vicegrips to secure the part you already have loose and use only one tool. Strip or sandblast rims. I only used primer on the inside of the rim, paint it if you feel the need. Clamp a vicegrips on the rim on one edge of the mounted tire and use the tool to work your way around, it is easier to use one tire tool than try to use two at the same time. This is true for mounting, or dismounting. Don't use metal valve stems, even the short ones don't flex enough to get a hose on them. Don't paint the rims before mounting tires, you ARE gonna scratch them up mounting the tires. Take a rag and rub grease on the sides of the tires to keep paint from sticking, take care not to get it on the rims. Don't inflate the tires yet! I used Valspar Almond Oil based spray paintr and prime from Tractor Supply, a real good match. Let them dry well. Take them to a truck stop if you don't have a good compressor at the house. Go to the truck fueling lanes, these put out enough volume to seat beads, the 75 cent per minute boxes in the auto lane will not seat beads. Spray the tires down with "Purple Power" degreaser, available at most auto parts stores. This will remove the grease and any over spray on it. PM me with any questions.
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I found that bolting the wheel down flat to the bench worked pretty well for holding things while the tires go on and off. With some patience and a little soap & water I've been able to mount/dis-mount both front and rear tires.
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quote:
I go to a tire store for fronts. Life's too short to wrestle those on my own.
Agreed!}:):D
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There is a right side and a wrong side of a rim to start mounting a tire from and it makes a world of difference. If you look at a rim you'll notice there is a bigger "depression" (can't think of the right word) that helps the bead stay out of the way while the other side is up close to the where your bead is. This is hard to describe but if you notice the cords are starting to stretch you're probably mounting from the wrong side.
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My Mom and pop tire shop charged me 20$ well worth the hastle to me. I did not buy the tires from them either.
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Tire shop here in town only charges $5.00 a tire. For that price they can put them on for me.
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I'm not sure what the major problem is. I change all size tires. The smallest ones I have done is 4.10/3.50x4. Now granted it isn't as easy as a 10.5x12, but I do it here at home with a small tire iron and a slightly bent screw driver. I just kneel on the tire as I work it off the rim. Make all the tools you want, but if I was you, for the $40 it cost, I would get this. http://www.northerntool.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_6970_13610_13610


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If your going to spend the money, wait till Harbor Freight has the next size larger manual on sale. I bought one last year makes a world of difference. Also helps because your not working on the ground. GregB
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Thanks for the info on painting the wheels Jeff. This info was just in time to use on my restoration.
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At our shop, we use something similar to this: [img]http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/photos/34500-34599/34542.gif[/img] When I worked for Al, I used a cold chisel, a maul, and tire irons. Big difference, but I can do them either way. The beauty of the above tool is that it keeps the rim stationary, and at a good workable height. Ours also has tools that you rotate around the anchor point that will guide the tire on to the rim. Like someone else said- The key to the entire operation is to keep one side in the drop center portion of the rim, so that the tire has more room to be maneuvered. There's my 2 cents- hope it helps. Andy
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Hey Jeff, Just got back from Tractor Supply. Looked for the Tractor and Implement Almond but couldn't find it. Even checked the shelf tags tomake sure they weren't just out of stock. Guy looked it up in the computer for me and said there wasn't a listing for it(some of the people who work there are not the sharpest tools in the shed, so that doesn't necessarily mean anything). Do you still have the can?
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It is a Valspar Anti-rust Oil Based Enamel spray bomb, not sure if all stores handle it or not. It was hidden on the bottom shelf, the SKU number is: 80047 44260 the color is "Gloss Almond"
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I used to use an acme screw in the vise to hold the rim, until I got the same tire changer that Elon has. Now it's a piece of cake to change them.
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There is a member "thedaddycat" or something very similar. If memory serves me correctly he was very good at changing tires and listted his method for doing it somewhere here.
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Here's the method I use to paint the rim after the tire is mounted. I use steel shims (thin cardboard can be used but can't be reused as long)with a radius cut on one side. I deflate the tire so i can more eassily slide these between the tire and rim. I overlap each shim with the next to cover the tire all the way around. I try to keep these as flat to the tire as I can so the outside edge of the rim is easier to paint. I then rap an old towel or rag round the tire and cover the valve stem, then it's ready to paint.


Dan
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I just lay a tire down and then with a 2" X 8" X 36" board laying flat and close to the bead, drive up on it with the front wheel with my '89 Mercury Marquis. A copule of trips up generally pops the bead loose.
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I've had good luck breaking the beads on front tires using my 6" shop vise. I also use the vise to hold the wheel while I mount the new tire. I put something like a hammer handle down though the axle hole, then use screwdrivers and tire irons to put it on -- using lots of soapy water.
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Harbor freight has the portable tire changer mentioned above onsale this week for $39.99 just thought I would pass it along.
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