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EricD

Two more off brand loads

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EricD
First on Sunday I picked up this Sears GT18 Onan Hydrodrive. Complete except the rear power lift :( Runs nicely, quite deck, tiller doesn't have spark, blower in good shape (have mule just not photo)





Last night I went and picked up this lot. WH12 Automatic. I think it is a '73 Charger from the model # 104 658. It has been repowered recently with a K3018, serial 1827903963 (not sure of the year on engine - any help?). Came with a really nice tiller, snow blower, deck, and what looks like a Simplicity walk behind plow (if anyone wants the plow let me know).










Now it's a matter of figuring out what I'm keeping. The WH had been disassembled for restoration and is in pieces in the truck. I have a sears brand cab to install on the GT and the hdrodrive is really sweet and unusual. I do like the idea of having a tiller w/o an engine though like the WH's. Maybe I'll keep the attachements off the WH and hold out for a newer hydro model to appear... So, what are your thoughts everyone?

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Chris727
Thats a nice haul. I have an earlier Sears hydro Suburban. Its a 1971 HT14 with a 14hp cast iron briggs and the older hydrogear/sunstrand transmission same as what was used on the Massey MF12's. Your Sears looks quite different from the earlier Hydro Suburbans. They used a differet frame to accommodate the hydro as it was flat in the back with no slope, used different fenders too. I'm wondering if they went to a differnt model of hydrostat for the GT18? Is there any chance you could post the 917. etc. sears # for the tractor? I'd like to look it up and see how they squeezed the hydro in it. Thank you. Chris

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SmilinSam
Going by the serial number the kohler is a 1988 vintage. If it were me I'd put the Wheel Horse back together and sell off the Sears after I saw it all worked OK. It is 1973 or 1974, but the Charger/Raider names were dropped after 1972 which was the last year for those and the last year for the old style implement attaching system. 1973 was the first year for the "Quick-Tach" system. Attachments made for these "classic" type of tractors from 1973 -2007 will all interchange. I dont know as if there is any other manufacturer that has that long a time spread on interchangability of attachments. 34 years beats the closest runner up of Simplicity which was 1973 to 2000 at 27 years.

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firefoxz1
I have a GT18 like that except mine has the 3x2 tranny. I also am missing the power lift (switch and wires are there). I have a blower but am missing the mule drive. Could you take a picture of that? If the Onan is running strong keep the GT, JMHO.

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EricD
Chris: the numbers are 917 257070 and serial 148B01113. I'd be interested to find out what the differences are myself, please share what you learn. I've yet to tinker with either machine too much, not even touched the WH. Sam, thanks for giving me a year on the engine. I'm hoping for some time this weekend to try firing it up. The WH rear axle has some grease/gear oil all over the left side and that hub is loose. I can live with a seal but hope the axle/hub hasn't worn, that would be a shame. The parts I got with the WH are so foreign looking to me. Sure would have been easier to have seen it all together before it came... As far as keeping the WH, I do like the brand but not so sure this is the model I want... I still have the GT1600 with the Briggs and could repower it with that motor (I like twins) and keep the Kohler for another use. Firefox, as far as the keeping the Sears over the WH, I'm honestly having a hard time considering parting with either... The Onan 18 is a really sweet engine and I'm having more ideas for the WH. I like the way the Sears will power through anything with the mower but hate how the deck wheels dig in on quick and tight turns. I don't think I'd use it as a dedicated mower ever and don't think I'd like haggling with swapping the attachments on this either (this mule drive and that one yada yada). My Simplicity 6216 will most likely be my dedicated mower as it's outfitted to my pull behind vacuum for fall clean up and mows nicely every time. I'm starting to feel like the WH is a project that is going to require more time than I have and it's not "the" WH I really want. I'm toying with obtaining a later model Hydro and using the WH attachments I have with it (blower and tiller). If I keep the WH hydro I have it could come in handy getting a later model (say I find one with a blown pump or needing an engine). I appreciate your input guys, thanks. On another front: I did tinker with the tiller a couple nights ago and couldn't get spark. The carb was pretty gummed up to0 probably needing a rebuild. I was pricing a new stator on ebay for it and came across an ad on craigslist for a 8hp briggs for $50. So, I swapped out the motor with some linkage modifications and have a solid and great running HD tiller now. It starts with one pull but also has an electric starter on it that I could wire up should I ever have to pull it more than twice :I

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SmilinSam
Just put the tiller and the blower on the GT1600, they will fit right on. Wheel Horses are simple in construction, but it would be a PIA to put it back together without knowing where everything goes being new to these types. Besides, from my experience hardware usually gets lost along the way with machines bought apart. The rear hubs on Wheel horses being loose are something I have seen many times. The set screws work free then the keyways in the axles get wallered out. Seals then begin to leak and so on. The 1992 314H did that . My temp fix was to put a new seal in, get a new key and fill the gap with liquid metal and re-asemble and let sit to dry for 2 days before using. that fix lasted for quite a while anyhow. I noticed the electric clutch on yours too. If that went bad it would be pretty expensive to replace that, so it might be best just to save the engine for spare and keep the atachments for the GT1600. Alot of parts off the rest of the tractor do quite well on Ebay. Headlight sets if not cracked can bring $70 or so as could the clutch if it works. Hood, dash, steering wheel, quich tach mules atc all have resale value. You could probably ebay the unwanted pieces for $200-$300 all said and done. Also the idler pulley/bracket in the 7th picture of the Wheel Horse that sits between the hood and seat deck goes for the tiller. The rear hitch under the axle on your GT1600 also is the same to use with the tiller. So you could sell the one that came with the red tractor. Those can bring $70 by themselves too.

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Ketchamized
Personally, I'd keep the wheelhorse and look for another exact same model. That way, you have a good tractor and a parts tractor. Take apart the new one, put on best parts and sell the rest of the parts and recoup the costs. In the end, you'd have a free tractor that runs great and has everything on it.

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EricD
Thanks for the good advice and information Everyone. Sam, I think I'll be parting this out according to your recc's. The sterring on the GT is worn as it is skipping when turning occassionally. I spent from 6-6 today spreading six yards of mulch and doing some much needed spring cleaning in the cellar and garage. Once I get some engergy back I now have a good clean work space to begin the tear down on the WH. THANK you very much for pointing out the tiller component as I plan to keep the attachments and engine. Ketch, I'm looking at a possible relocation and just can't have another machine hanging about. But moreover, I want a newer model hydro WH rather than the nice but older one. With two little one's I just don't have the time to put into that much tinker time. Having a solid 12 hours of work on the property time today was a boon and only happened because I had my sister and brother-in-law around to help out with childcare/chores. Sam, or anyone else WH savy, will the steering swap out from the 12 auto to the GT1600?

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SmilinSam
I dont know if the parts will interchange or not, but they might. You would have tto compare the parts. The GT is more complicated in construction so the steering shaft and casting are harder to get a than the red tractor. What happens is the steering shaft end wears the casting it rides in out. The end fits into a hole in the casting that holds the teeth on the shaft against the teeth on the casting. Then I believe the shaft running up to the wheels also fits into another hole in the bottom front of that same casting. I've seen the upper hole holding the steering wheel shaft get ovaled out in time. I dont think there are any adjustments for that other than maybe drilling hole out and bushing it or shaving down the end of the shaft and bushing that. The other thing I have seen is the lower shaft sliding out away from the casting enough to let the teeth slip. Its been so long since I messed with those I dont remember just how it all goes together, but with that the goal would be to bring that lower shaft up tight to the casting or moving the casting forward to take up any slack. Like I said, I cant really remember how I used to do it.

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EricD
Looks like the steering column shaft (teeth) moved away from the teeth attached to the steering rod going to the front wheels. The bottom of the steering column is held in place by something along the lines of what I think is called a pillow block. In any event, properly named or not, this thing is held in place by a couple bolts, I loosened them both up from underneath and was able to move the piece closer joining the teeth tighter. Hopefully this will do the trick. Didn't have time to give it a test ride yet. Thanks for everything.

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Chris727
Eric, here is what I have found about the Sears. It appears your tractor has a different type of hydro from the earlier Hydro-Trac Suburbans. It appears to have a vickers? with an oil cooler rather than the older type of hydrogear like mine. Yours looks like the 1978 model at this link. http://www.geocities.com/sware56920/Hydo_Tracs.html Here are some pics of my 1971 HT14. Note the flat frame and difference in fenders.


The lever to the lower right is the parking brake and the knob the the lower left pulls up for the freewheeling valve.


Note the use of dual seat springs. There is supposed to be a cover with a tailight but I have it in a box somewhere. The non-hydro suburbans had the light mounted to a tab or the storage tray.








I have the inspection plate removed, making the top of the hydro visible. Hope this info is of some use. Chris

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Nick
quote:
Originally posted by EricD
First on Sunday I picked up this Sears GT18 Onan Hydrodrive. Complete except the rear power lift :(
Nice find Eric. Seems like they all are missing the power lift.:( I just bought a 1977 Sears GT 10 just for the snow plow & hitch adapter, to mount on my Roper. I figured if I didn't buy it now, I would be kicking myself for not buying it. Last year I was looking on ebay for a hitch and they were selling anywhere from $125 to $150! :O I will be taking off the plow and wheel weights and will be listing the tractor on ebay when I get the chance.

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firefoxz1
Here is the GT18 I own. [IMG]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v233/kismar//Tractors/IM000571.jpg[/IMG] [IMG]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v233/kismar//Tractors/IM000570.jpg[/IMG] If you decide to part it out let me know. There is nothing I can think of I need at the moment but I will look it over if you decide.

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