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Al

Learning One Is Not So Smart! Never too old!

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Al
Hi, We got an old Broadmore in with the holes in the hub for the drive pins bad. Since this inside the rim and you can't get at it to drill an new hole in a patch, I did the fix I have done several times before. I rolled a couple of pieces and drilled them and welded a nut on one and then put a grade 8 bolt through them and welded them on. Stuck another nut on to lock the bolt and keep it from coming out. Cool fix Huh?? See attached pics




The pictures don't show the welding. Delivered the tractor and the lady called after about an hour of mowing and said it wouldn't move. Went out and picked it up and the wheel was almost off. My cool idea was not so cool. By welding the nut fast and then putting a locking nut on, the threaded end was anchored solid and any play in the hole in the other side would bend and flex the threaded end and in about 1 hour of running broke the bolt off flush with the inside on the nut. Pulled the wheel and ground the nut off on both wheels and got 2 new grade 8 bolts that the unthreaded part would reach completely through the holes and washered it so all threads were out of the holes and the bolts were free in the holes, double nutted them and sent it home. Through the years I have fixed a number of these wheels with the welded nuts. I thought it was an excellent cool fix. Now I am in the spot where revisions are born. What seemed like the thing to do at the time, WASN'T!!! After analyzing the situation, I realized I wasn't as smart as I thought I was. Guess if one can bat over 50% you are still on the winning side. Hope these pics work. Al Eden

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UCD
I had used the same fix on a drive shaft once using grade 8 bolts but was breaking them as fast as I could put them in. Grade 8 bolts have high stretch/clamping strength but not good shear strength. An 80+ year old mechanical genius friend of mine told me to replace the bolt with a grade 5 or even a grade 3. I replaced it with a grade 5 and never broke another one. I have also used grade 8 bolts in place of shear pins when I could not get the shear pins and they would break just like the correct shear pins.

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ken728
I also agree that grade 5 is the way to go - running them in my 728 right now. These wheels really seam to be the weak link with this tractor. My long term plan is to remove the tubes from the wheels and then fabricate some super tight fitting tubes with a flange for mounting up the wheels. Anybody out there go to those lengths in order to deal with this?:Q

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goatfarmer
It's unusual, Al, that you've fixed these the same way over the years, and this is the only one that gave you a problem.:O

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mmischni
I had a similar problem, althought not wallowed out that bad. Holes had already been re-drilled at 90 degrees and those were worn too. (this was a bolt-on flange, so it was easy to re-drill. I drilled the threads out of 2 nuts, cut the threaded portion off of a long bolt (so it was just a hex-head pin) and assembled with a nut on each side of the sleeve and the "pin" holding it all in alignment. Then welded the nuts to the sleeve. Turned out to be a light driving fit for the pin so it should last a while. I have been just using a cheap hardware store bolt for the last year with no problems, and I am not easy on the clutch either :) Matt

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