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I need some ideas


Mat Perucci

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Im planning on pulling my AC at the fairs this year. I got wheel weights and calcium filled AGs But i still cannot get enough pull with it to raise the front wheels off the ground which is what im looking to do. Any ideas on how to make it pull better without the use of tire chains or bigger tires?
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Mat, if the front wheels are staying on the ground, DON"T CHANGE A THING! The reason the front wheels lift off is the loss of traction. They allow filled tires on a pulling track????? I would ask about that one. Most do not allow any filled tires.
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Yes i will at bridgewater fair and bethlehem fair. They allow liquid ballasted tires The thing is its just not competitive enough right now and i was very disappointed last year after not even making it past the second pull
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Well over here on this side of the state, they all use turf tires when pulling. Not sure if that would help ya, or not.


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Mat, what tractor are you using? You want to use a standard three speed model. If your using a veritable, you should remove the veritable pulleys and replace them with solid pulleys. You will need to swap out the BGB, with one from a three speed, so the pulleys will line up right using the key ways.
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Boy Now I find out about all the cool stuff going on in CT...after getting away. I used to live in Shelton, and loved the goshen fair.
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If the front tires are not coming off the ground then you do not have enough traction! You do not want the front end to be up in the air but you DO want it to be very light and at the end of the track to be just about "bobbing". If the front end is in the air then that means your hitch height is be lowered. When this happens there is less angle from the chain to the sled which means less down force, This means less traction! You will also want your hitch as high as the rules allow for this same reason. There is a very fine line between having to much weight in the front to too much weight in the back. With garden tractors there is also your body weight which can be used as "adjustable" ballast. If the front doesn't even bobble and you don't seem to have traction then lean back and you will move some weight to the back. The same holds true if the front end the way up in the air, lean forward and some weight will be shifted forward. If the tractor is going to the right and you can't steer it straight then just lean toward the right and that will add weight to that tire and give it more traction. I hope this helps! Dan
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Elon: Im using the B212 whats the idea behind switching from vari-drive to a standard 3? Dan: Sounds like you pull a lot. I got the hitch raised to 1 inch below axle centerline thats all the rules allow. I got to work on trying to get it to "bob" like you said. Do you know if mowing decks will make an improvement?
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Mat, variable trans are notorious for losing their adjustment. Being 30years old all the linkages are worn and most of them have worn belts. You can't tighten up the belt tension enough to compensate. They slip too much.
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This is true there is a lot of play in my vari drive. especially where the pully is on the bgb it doesnt shut all the way so i shoved a bolt on there to take the play out. It works and goes like it should you just cant adjust the speed. Since I dont really use any pto driven attachments other than a sickle bar. I really have no use for it anyways. after i shoved that bolt inside i got it to around 6mph in 3rd gear and no slippage problems. a the clutch still works so id say its good enough for now. Although occasionally i have to adjust the turn buckle.
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The mowing deck would give you more weight but it would be in the front of the rear tires so that would also add weight to the front which you don't need. Most pulls allow are set up with weight classes so you can't be over the specific weight of the class. If you are pulling in the 1000lbs class then the tractor and driver together can not weigh more than that. If you are at the weight but can't get the traction you need, then you need to try to find ways of moving more of the weight to the back. Maybe run smaller or narrower front tires and rims or a smaller battery, remove the lift lever and related items. I'm sure you get the picture, but remember to check the rules for what you are and are not allowed to do in your area. Dan
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So heres the "STOCK" garden tractor pulling rules I got from the fairs web page. And people get away with breaking them I will Highlight every rule i saw violated last year.... STOCK RULESClasses 1-8 1. Stock garden tractors, up to 20HP, one or two cylinder, gasoline engines only. 2. Tractors must have stock size rims with stock size garden tractor tires. 3. All tractors must have a rigid draw bar. Maximum draw bar height in classes 1-6 will be 1 inch below rear axle centerline. Maximum draw bar height FOR BIG WHEELS, classes 6 and 7 will be 12 in. 4. One set of stock garden tractor wheel weights or tires loaded with liquid ballast. No other added weight. Tractors with 8 in. wheels may use non-stock weights that can weigh up to 75 lbs. each. 5. Under mounted mowers are allowed. No other attachments, 6. Engine cannot run over stock RPM. 7. No cut tires, tire chains, dual wheels, locked differentials, 4x4’s, or crawlers. 8. Tractors in class 7 and 8 must be equipped with wheelie bars that are strong enough to support the tractor. Wheelie bars must extend 4 inches behind the exterior of the tire and will be no more than 6 inches from the ground.
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