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John_RI

Vickers Hydro Leak, 3212H ~ any easy cures?

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John_RI
I just picked-up a 3212H, “unknown condition”. Well, it turns out the condition is “very poor”. I managed to get an engine into it and found the hydraulic fluid level to be down below the top of the filter (not a good sign). I filled it up and didn’t see any leaks. Cranked it up and to my amazement it seemed to run fine, quiet & responsive. Drove it around for a while and parked it only to find it leaking hydro fluid. It’s a drip every couple of minutes. Is this a common problem, and what is the fix? Thanks, John

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callwill
It is likely leaking from the pintle. i've had two that did it. Best repair if it is the pintle is to have it bushed or get a rebushed case(you need to turn in yours & rebuild from there).Original case was not bushed & was not expected that they would still be around 30-40 years later. people have wried alternatve fixes but they don't last, on one of mine i spent a little time trying to smooth & chamfer the area around the pintle, silicone greased an appropriate sized o-ring, cut myself a thin plastic washer slid them on the pintle & then chamfered the actuator arm a bit & pushed that all back on there & th did the job for quite a long time, but eventually such temp fixes will leak again.

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Ketchamized
John, The leak at the pintle shaft is VERY common with Vickers hydro transmission. This pintle shaft is the shaft that's sticking out like a mini-tail on the back of the top portion of the transmission. I had a 3410H that leaked pretty badly at the pintle shaft. I had a quick fix- find a good rubber "O" ring that will go on the shaft snugly, but not big enough so that it sticks out of that "ditch" that's on the shaft housing where the pintle sticks out. Grease the "O" ring before you put it on. Get a set collar and sandwich the "O" ring between the set collar and the shaft housing. Put some pressure on it, and screw in the set screw. Add a dab of grease for giggles, and you're set to go. It'll stop the leak dead stop. But, as Callwill above mentioned, any temporary fix will eventually leak. One guy did mention having a good 3 years of use with a temp fix, though. But I'd expect that to be the ultimate maximum length of time that it'll last like that. You can contact Brenda at Sandy Lake Implements- she is fantastic- they sell refurbished housing with new bushings installed. It's something upwards of $120+ PLUS your old housing as a core exchange. It can be expensive. Personally, I'd just buy another hydro tractor for parts that's confirmed not to have a leak- for cheap. Put together one nice tractor out of the two and sell the rest to recoup the cost. Good luck!

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dlcentral
I've yet to see any of these that need rebush, new orings from lowes are a perfect fit and theyve lasted me for 5+yrs now or you could put some lucas trans reconditiner in it for a temp fix,,

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olcowhand
My Allis 416 Vickers was leaking at both pintles, so during the restoration I took all apart to put in new o-rings. Seeing that there was room for a second o-ring I took the shafts & chucked them in my lathe to cut a second groove for another o-ring. Man are those shafts hard.....had to use a very thin cutoff wheel in my air cutoff tool to cut the groove. Leak is no longer & hope it stays that way. Didn't seem to add any drag to the shaft either. I always figure 2 o-rings gotta seal better than one.

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John_RI
Thanks for all the replies. I'm going to have to take another look and try to determine where the leak is comming from. I didn't think it was as high as the pintle. In looking yesterday it seemed that it was comming from somewhere about halfway down the motor/pump portion of the unit(about the middle top-to-bottom of the 2 fined sections). It was dripping off the bottom of the gear case but it was definitely ATF and comming from somewhere above. Is there a source for a manual on the vickers hydrostatic pump & motor unit?

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Tiny
John, I know from years of mechanical work that something that has been sitting for a long time can have the seals kind of set-up over time and that after re-use it will eventually regain it's shape and work perfectly fine again. If it's only a minor leak I'd say just keep running it for awhile and see if it comes around. Just make sure it stays topped of with fluid in the meantime. I can't tell you how many times people have said "Oh yeah, the leak stopped", only to find they ran out of fluid. Richard

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John_RI
Took another look at the transmission, and with all the knowledge above I think I've managed to at least determine that the leak is at the front pintle shaft - the input lever/control shaft (can't find it in either the simplicity manual or the vickers section) is wet with oil and everything above it is dry. Also, the rear pintle shaft is bone dry. Looks like replacing the o-ring would do it but I'm not sure I'm brave enough to pull it all apart. Might try Dave's lucas approach for starters. Thanks again for all the help. John

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