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7100 series power steering (finished)


richp

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I started my power steering conversion. My goals are to have little clutter and look factory as possible. I also want as much a bolt on as possible. I was able to reuse the original steering shaft end so I could use the factory steering wheel. I wanted to use a u joint, but there was not enough room, so I went direct.

The ram looks short, but it is perfect size and gives full travel.(4")



Should have gotten a 5 port power beyond unit, but I am running a stand alone power steering pump, so shouldn't be a problem.

Had to make original steering hole bigger to hook hoses to steering unit.




Hopefully by next weekend I can get the pump mounted and try it out. All done. Works real well. Same amount of turns as before, but so much easier. Well worth the effort. Here's a few more pics.










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Hi richp, Does it have to be power assist hydraulic steering? Many boats, including some quite large ones have hydraulic steering. However, it is not power assist. The steering wheel turns a pump with 2 hydraulic lines that run back to a ram that turns the outboard or the rudder. A hydraulic auto pilot is a pump spliced into the circuit that pumps either side of the circuit to steer the boat based on input from the GPS/chartplotter/autopilot system. If you have a large, uncomplicated lawn you could adapt marine autopilot technology to the hydraulic steering and the tractor would drive from waypoint to waypoint, mowing the lawn by itself! You have probably said a million times before, but where can I get and what is the color you paint your tractors? I really favor that color. If it's not rattle can my neighbor, heh, heh, just bought an HVLP set up he is done with.
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Simpleton7016
Excellent, excellent, excellent. Thanks for the play by play. Keep it up...this thread is destined for the tech tips forum!
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Hey Rich, I'm not sure if that mount plate for the orbital is strong enough. :D Betcha never have problems there! Great job you did! Very clean layout too.
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One thing I will have to address is when turning all the way to the left, the back of the left front wheel hits the steering cylinder. I'll have to fab a steering stop. Another thing is now the steering wheel is not centered, but i'll live with it. One thing I will get is a steering wheel knob. Had one on my JD 400 and liked it.
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Don't worry about the steering wheel not being centered. The displacement of the cyl. is different due to the rod taking up space so the wheel will constantly "walk" to a different clock position while in use. My conversion on my 620 does the same thing. Very nice job on your conversion.
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quote:
Originally posted by D-17_Dave
Don't worry about the steering wheel not being centered. The displacement of the cyl. is different due to the rod taking up space so the wheel will constantly "walk" to a different clock position while in use. My conversion on my 620 does the same thing. Very nice job on your conversion.
Yep, my Massey does same thing too.
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"Very nice work, very professional. Al Eden" Ditto what Al said. ^ Changing steering wheel position on my Sovereign bugged me badly at first but I soon learned to ignore it. Wouldn't be able to stand it in a car though.
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You might want to jack up the front of the frame so that the front axle articulates. My guess is that the rod end at the steering arm will hit the side of the frame before the axle hits the bottom of the frame rail. If my guess is correct, the rod end will act as the front axle stop. You just need to tack a piece of steel on the top of the axle to allow it to hit the bottom of the frame rail before the rod end hits the frame. The little depression in the side rail was to allow the drag link balljoint to just barely clear the side rail under full articulation of the front axle. However, your rod end appears to be larger than the drag link balljoint.
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Nice modification! Glad you were able to reach your goals. I am, however, a little confused as you state that it's not a power assist set-up but it looks like you have installed a hydraulic pump. Could you elaborate? Thanks, John
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John, I think what he means is that it's a completely hydraulic system with no mechanical connection. If you had a mechanical link and added a boost system such as torque amplifier system like is on older tractors or the newer Prestige models it would be considered power assist.
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  • 2 weeks later...
Do they make those car power steering pumps that turn CCW as well as CW, was it off a particular car? I see now what you mean about the front tire hitting the cylinder in a full left hand turn, would imagine locating the cylinder back further and adding a smaller diameter extension to the plunger be a way to help that. Nice!
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Actually, i'm gonna raise the height of the cylinder and space it at the steering arm. Just have to find time to do it.
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Very nice! As stated above my Sunstar steering wheel returns the same way. It bothered me at first, but I got used to it. Thanks for the pics.
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The pump I had kicking around, think it's a chrysler. Almost any car pump will have worked because I had to fabricate mounting brackets anyway. It's a tight fit but being a 7100 series, there's some room up front. The steering cylinder is from surplus center and is 4" travel. The link is http://surpluscenter.com/item.asp?UID=2007081011452234&item=9-1649-04&catname=hydraulic. The steering valve I also got at surplus. I spliced into the Sundstand lines right behind the bgb,going to the factory hydro lift but no pressure would go to the steering valve. I have never used a priority valve before, but I think that could have made it work. D17 Dave could probablly shed some light on that and I haven't ruled out going that way later on. One nice feature is I never liked it when a front tire would catch something and rip the wheel out of my hand (like catching a snow bank), with power steering the wheels stay where you want them to. Hope this helps.
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This is your valve? http://surpluscenter.com/item.asp?UID=2007081011452234&item=9-6698&catname=hydraulic -Don
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I think your separate pump is the way to go. The hydraulics off the Sundstrand aren't "live", that is you loose hydraulic pressure (steering) when you press the clutch/brake in. Maybe a guy could learn to live with that. -Don
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Don, many tractors I have owned or seen do not have a way to disengage the drive belt to the pump. I know a few John Deere's including the 400 I owned didn't have the option to stop the pump. I also remember many people on this site say they never clutch their hydro's. I think I could stop my Simp quicker by yanking the lever back than clutching to brake. Also, I believe that steering valve is the one I used but I don't have the numbers close by. You might want to consider one with a power beyond port to give you the option to run a hydraulic accessory aft.
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We've got a 4041 Powermax here at work with a large print sign on the dashboard: "Clutch is for emergencies only, use the hydro lever!"
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Great job! If i had a spare 3112h i would want this set-up. I think that the seperate pump is the way to go, when i got my Sovereign back in 03 I Hated the fact that i lost steering and hydro lift when i depressed the brake! I have since trained myself to "learn" this machine but I still wish the steering and lift worked seperate.
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