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Paint problems

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I got off on the wrong foot by starting painting without reading the directions. Yesterday evening I painted the hood with Dupicolor DE 1620 paint then stopped and took my wife to dinner. Upon my return I started reading the label to see when I could re-coat and found out that I needed to put on all my coats within one hour or wait 7 days for the paint to cure before proceeding. What a bummer!C Today I started painting the fender deck with DE1607 (Decided DE 1620 was a bit too bright) in accordance with the instructions, putting two light coats on at 10 minute intervals then putting a medium heavy "wet" coat on all within one hour. After the third coat the fender/seat pan was looking great with paint that looked glass smooth with just a few areas that needed a little extra thickness. I started putting on the 4 th coat and ran out of paint so I put a 2nd can into service. Much to my dismay the 2nd can did not spray as smoothly and left a dull finish after drying for 10 minutes. peu

I am quite disappointed with the finish. I started checking my cans and found that the 1st can was another lot number. Can I wet sand the final finish after it has cured for 7 days? If so what kind grit sandpaper should I use. I have been using 320 grit on the primer...is that fine enough to give a good shine.

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I think 320 grit would be too coarse to make it shine. I would try 1000 grit wet sand, (keep it real wet). This will dull the finish at first but after wiping with a clean dry rag spray it with clear coat and it should bring it to a shine.

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I've never used 1000 grit so I can't speak for the results there. I've used 1200 grit to wet sand followed by polishing compound, then wax, and had excellent results. Even used it on cars where the clear coat has peeled off, but you have to keep the cars waxed or the shine quickly fades. Regular paint will maintain the shine with much fewer waxings.

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I had the same problem with my hood for my 707, but I just gave it some clear coat and the finish looks great. Also used it on my seat pan. Mostly the 2 main places that are open to bumps and such. Duplicolor SUV and Truck seems to be the most durable.

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Hi skunkhome, Here's my 2 cents. I worked in the paint shop of a boat builder many years ago. I don't favor wet sanding a spray job that went dull because it might or might not work (sometimes you take the paint right off high spots). A quick resanding and respray will work and puts paint on instead of removing paint. I would let the paint set and sand it again with 320 grit (if that's what you have on hand, 180 or 220 is fine). You just want to smooth and dull the surface to give it tooth for the next coat. Use a dual action sander and only sand flat areas. Never power sand anywhere near a radius or edge as it removes too much paint. Use a sanding sponge or equivalent by hand very sparingly on an edge or radius. Sanding it out again should only take a short while. Prep by removing most of the dust with a clean paint rag or vacuum then use the 2 cloth method. Have one clean paint rag lightly soaked with solvent in one hand and a clean, dry paint rag in the other. Wipe an area at a time with the solvent rag and follow immediately with the clean, dry, rag turning both frequently. If painting outside I usually take the hose and spray the ground to knock down any dust. Watch out for dust on your clothes. Then just spray again. Check the spray pattern on a piece of cardboard to gauge how close of a pass to make when you sweep the can back and forth while painting. Start with full cans, if takes more than one, have both shaken, tested and good-to-go. If your spray pass is close enough you get a shiny paint job. If your spray pass is too close or your sweeping motion too slow you get runs and sags (looks like no runs or sags on your tin, which is great). If your spray pass is slightly too far away, too much solvent flashes out of the paint spray before it lands on the tin and you get a dull finish. If the rattle can sits in the sun and gets too hot it can contribute to the solvent flashing off very quickly, producing a dull finish if you get even slightly too far away with your spray pass. Also some rattle cans have nice, high quality spray nozzles that make it easy to get a shiny paint job. Others have pathetic nozzles that make life difficult. IMO don't wax anything until you are done painting everything. Wax is a contaminant that causes paint not to adhere or causes paint to fisheye. You can't always see wax contamination and it spreads very deviously. It gets on your hands, clothes, rags, whatever and the next thing you have mysterious problems with the next thing you paint.

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