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RodStayner

Replacement Starter Solenoid

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RodStayner
On my 7016H, the starter solenoid emits a buzz when I try to start the tractor. When I disconnect the starter, it just clicks, but I only measure about 8 volts output of the solenoid. The battery is charged and measures 12 volts. I believe that the problem lies with the starter solenoid. The simplicity part # is 122216 and costs $40 from Jacks and $52 from my local dealer if he orders it. However, Jack's lists some other starter solenoids: http://www.jackssmallengines.com/solenoids_simplicity.cfm Would the Part# 435032 work on this tractor? Or is there a cheaper but just as good alternative from another source (TSC, Napa, etc.)?

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Jac
Don't sell the solenoid short just yet. The battery should measure around 12.6 or so without a load. You could also have dirty terminals. Also are you using a digital or analog meter? There is a difference. Jack

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HubbardRA
If the solenoid is large enough to carry the starter load, then you can use it. I have used automotive solenoids, and an currently have a solenoid on one of my tractors that I pulled off a Murray. This solenoid is physically much smaller than the Simplicity solenoid, but works fine.

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Unkle Spike
Older Ford trucks for sure had them, try a '80-'85. Try Advance Auto Part No. SD27231 $9.29 Or AutoZone Part No. F496 $9.99 Starter Solenoid for a 1980 Ford Bronco May be physically a bit large for your application though.

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firefoxz1
A good but dead battery will still show 12 volts with no load a lot of the times but no power. As soon as even a small load is applied the voltage will drop. As "Jac" said a good charged battery should read aleast 12.5 or more, If the reading is at 12 I would charge it or if you did that already replace it. A better test is a voltage drop test across the solenoid when activated. Put the positive lead on the battery side and the neg lead on the starter side, turn the key and read the voltage, anything more than .3v for a soleniod means replace it.

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Al
Hi, I predict that either cleaning the battery terminals or a bad battery cable is the solution. If the starter is connected and when you hit start, the solenoid connects the battery to the starter through the solenoid. As soon as the load of the starter is on the cable, the bad connection causes the voltage to drop to about 0 to 5 volts. This is not enough to hold the solenoid in and it drops out. Then the voltage to the solenoid goes back up to 10 or 12 volts, which pulls the solenoid in and the cycle repeats. This is how the chatter in the solenoid works. This is almost always the connection at the battery or corrosion inside terminal on the battery cable. A battery that has a bad connection inside the battery between the cells can also cause the problem. When cleaning the post and cable need to be scraped to pure lead. Ofter there is a thin coating of oxide that is like a layer of oxide that scrapes about like a layer of glass a couple of thousands thick. The cables may look good when you look at them. A voltmeter will sort this out. To troubleshoot the problem take a voltmeter and measure the DC voltage from battery + terminal (post) to - terminal (post). If the voltage stays at 12 volts, when the starter is engaged, them move to the + terminal and the engine. If it still stays at 12v when the starter is engaged, then the battery and ground cable are OK. (If not , measure from the + post to the connector at the - post. If the voltage drops here, the cable needs cleaned. If good here pierce the insulation on the cable with the probe and if the voltage drops there when the starter is engaged the cable is bad). (The positive cable is more commonly the one causing the problem.) Next go from the engine- to the + battery CABLE CONNECTOR (at the + battery post NOT THE POST NOW) Hit start, if the voltage drops below 8 or 9 volts, cleaning the cable connection will fix the problem. If the voltage stays up around 11 or 12 volts, poke the probe through the insulation into the cable near the + connector. If the voltage stays up at the connector and drops when measured at the cable, the cable is corroded inside the connector and needs to be replaced. Another really quick check for the corroded posts. Take a regular pair of pliers. open the pliers and take one of the jaws and put it in the center of the post, take the other and bite into the lead on the cable connector. If there is a corroded connection at the battery post the pliers will bypass it and the unit should start, repeat with the neg connection. About 97% of the time when a solenoid chatters, it is a corroded battery connection, about 2% a defective battery and about 1% shorted or locked up starter, or a locked up engine. We run a starter and alternator shop and about 80% of the solenoids that are sold are not bad. If you have 12 volts to the solenoid battery cable terminal and 0 volts to the starter post when in start mode AND THE SOLENOID CLICKS WHEN GOING TO START MODE, then you have a bad solenoid. Chattering solenoids are almost never bad. Al Eden

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RodStayner
Thanks for all the help! sm01 When I first had this problem I initially thought of the battery. When I hooked up my charger, it didn't take long for it to say it was "charged" and I measured 12.0 volts with my digital Fluke meter. After coming back from camping for a few days, I measured the battery voltage again and this time it is at 11 volts. Now suspecting a bad battery, I hooked up the jumper cables to the truck and the tractor fired up better than ever before! sm06 The bad part is I tried to replace one of the brackets that holds the gas tank in place, and the gas line came out of the bottom of the tank and GAS WENT ALL OVER THE DECK I JUST REBUILD AND PAINTED. Needless to say...the paint started peeling off like sunburn in places. Looks like more work this fall....ngr2 Thanks again for all your help. I thought that battery was getting some years on it...

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