Jump to content

Unofficial Home of Old Simplicity & Allis-Chalmers Garden Tractors

Sign in to follow this  
Guest

2110 with blower ,belt routing contortions.

Recommended Posts

Guest
does the belt routing need to do a 180 degree rotation after running through the front v drive? Can the v belt run thru the idler pulleys on its non v backside, otherwise it seems like a hard twist route to turn the belt from the front drive over the idlers in such a short distance.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Guest
I will try to answer this. The belt runs back from the front blower housing pulley to the first idler v-pulley on the left as you look forward toward the blower. It then must then twist to go up and around and over the crankshaft pulley then twist again going down with the flat or back of the belt riding on the flat idler pulley then back out to the blower pulley. You are write about the short distance that this belt has to do all of its twisting and turning but it somehow does it. Actually there is only the one place to were the belt actually has to run on its back side and thats were it comes in contact with the one flat-non-v idler pulley otherwise the belt rides in all the other pullies with the v-portion of the belt the way a belt normally would be expected to run. This belt sure has alot of twists and bends to run and that's why it is a special belt designed just for this purpose. I once tried a plain belt "straight line belt" such as used for a alternator and it lasted all of about 15 min. where as the Simplicity belt is designed for this purpose and is called a compound belt where the plies of the belt are made to twist and turn. I hope that I have anwsered your question and that other will straigten me out if I made a mistake here. Good Luck, >>->happyjack<-<< P.S. Let me know and I will send you a page showing how the belt runs if you need it.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Guest
Thanks happyjack, your description is exactly what I was looking to find out. No snow anyway but I am ready now!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
BradW
ADD, I think you're right about using a PROPER aftermarket belt. I've had similar experiences. On the other hand, one time I tried an automotive type belt to finish mowing and that lasted less than 10 minutes. After replacing all my belts with OEM, I now stock spares, but haven't used one yet. The main reason I go with OEM is because they are an exact fit. In some applications, an OEM belt may give better performance than an aftermarket that may be a slightly different length. Another factor to belt longevity is direction. I think Jeff Nemes addressed that issue once or twice. After running a belt, it gets a "set" (you can usually see it). If the belt is put back on the opposite way, I think it strains the cords (much like radial tires).

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Guest
I know what everyone says about the off the shelf belts, however, I have had great luck with DAYCO belts designated as "AP" for 1/2" width, and "BP" as 5/8" width......all you need to know is the length......most commercial distributors will carry these belts if you ask for them......I just sent out a repair for and Allis B112 with blower, I believe is the same set up as 2110 with an AP64(64 inch belt) and the we have had two 6 inch storms and I have not had a call back........the belt was about $9 The AP and BP designation indicate the belt is wrapped to portect the outside edges of the cords and also there is an extra cord embedded in the fibers......

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.
Sign in to follow this  

×