Am I thinking right

[RedbarnRick 0]

Hi Guys, I need to bounce this idea off you. I am rebuilding my 3416 and a 7016 at the same time. I added the standard hydrualic lift parts to the 7016 and picked up a second sunstrand for the 3416. Here's where it gets tricky I added dual hydr. to the 3416 from a green machine, I want to use my original rearend from the 3416 it's still in excellent shape. I plan to use the Vickers hydro resevoir/ cooler for the sunstrand and the hydraulics, leaving the rearend closed to the hydraulic circuit since it originally had 90 weight gear oil run in it. Am I nuts (YEAH) seems like once the cylinders all have oil it should work like the Vickers did.I worked out the shift by getting a set of sunstrand levers and the hydro control group. I guess a pump run off the engine for the hydrualics can be done but I think this would be a neater install.

[wilm169 1]

The sunstrand will need the larger pop off values.

[RedbarnRick 0]

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Originally posted by wilm169
The sunstrand will need the larger pop off values.

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Hi, please explain the difference.

[wilm169 1]

Sunstrand used 2 differant sets one with hydrolics and one without drive only. Sets the pressure differant.

[HubbardRA 12]

Hope this helps. These valves control the pressure in the tranny and hydrolift. To get maximum pressure from the hydrolift, you will need to shim the pressure relief valve and check the pressure with a gauge. If the pressure goes over 800 psi, there is a possibility of cracking the housing of the pump, which is the weakest part. Pressures should be checked at WOT.

[RedbarnRick 0]

Rod, I used this valuable post as a guide earlier in the year, and ordered enough for both sunstrands, thanks again for posting it. What's the opinion on the fluid capacity with two cylinders, think it can handle the output and still move the tractor? I made pics of some of the progress and will post them as I get things together, just have to get a boat out of my way and recover some more from a surgery.

[HubbardRA 12]

When you get it together, fill the reservoir with fluid and then activate both cylinders to the max in both directions, then place them at the max extended position and make sure the fluid reservoir is full. There should be plenty of capacity in the reservoir once the cylinders are filled.

[RedbarnRick 0]

Thanks Rod I appreciate the help!

[UCD 12]

quote:

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then place them at the max extended position and make sure the fluid reservoir is full.

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If you fill the reservoir with the cylinders extended when you retract them you will have hydraulic fluid everywhere.

[RedbarnRick 0]

quote:

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Originally posted by UCD

quote:

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then place them at the max extended position and make sure the fluid reservoir is full.

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If you fill the reservoir with the cylinders extended when you retract them you will have hydraulic fluid everywhere.

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Yes Sir! Been there done that. Thanks

[HubbardRA 12]

Yes, it will push fluid out the overflow, but the reservoir will end up filled to its maximum capacity. You may have to clean up some fluid, but it is better than running the fluid too low and sucking foam into the pump causing it to cavitate and come apart. Remember that you have two cylinders attached to this unit and there is no factory setting that you can go by. After you blow the excess fluid out the vent, then you can move both cylinders to the retracted position and check the dipstick. Once you have this reading, then you can fill it this way the next time and not end up with a mess.

[RedbarnRick 0]

I'm further along than this but I'll post some of the early engineering that went into this(Rube Goldberg would be proud) First pic shows the frame mounted to an engine stand.

The second shows a mock up with the drive shaft and rockshaft in place and an attempt to use the Deere hyd. cylinder mount. I found the simplicity cylinder mount works fine, I just need to get a second one (see my want ad in classifieds)

The same shot with cylinder

The modifictions neccesary to mount the cyl.

Modifying the rockshaft for cylinder to mount.

The rockshaft has to be rotated forward to fit the Deere cyl. so the lever for the rear cable lift had to be cut too.

Look close and you can see the cut out in the frame in the shape of the valve body. It is face down all the fittings but two go thru the frame here. The other two will get holes and 90 els to put the thru.

This shows the valve in place and why it wouldn't fit in the normal spot, the valve hung down under the tractor too far, the tape line is the line of the edge of the starter/ gen. belt at the rear of the engine.

It fits under the dash and still allows the tank fitting to clear, the chalk circles are to determine lever placement,I used the top one.

I bought a bearing to fit the 1 1/8 th in. shaft on the Deere dual levers at Farm and Fleet it came with the cage mount and collar with set screws. I cut out new 1/4 in. lever brackets out of bar stock after a crude weld job showed the Deere parts to be too short.

Here's the dual levers in place, I am using simplicity hard lines rebent to go to the valve and rubber hyd. hoses from the valve to the mid mount clyinder. I also have hard lines with quick couplers to go up front.

It's about here that the boat enters the picture, it takes up the whole shop, then the rotator cuff surgery. I'll be back on track and up to date in a couple more weeks.