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Coil conversion on briggs problem


wilm169

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I have a 7016 that was converted last year, the problem now is, it is eating coils every 3-4 hours. Anyone know what is going on? It is dead until you put a differant coil on, then runs perfect.
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I assume you mean conversion to an external coil and battery ignition. a) are you sure this is a coil with an internal resistor? b) if not, does it have an external resistor? I bet both are "no". The resistor is to keep the coil from burning out. It goes on the hot side of the coil. -don
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Yes it has the external resister on it, the new one I had on it also had a internal one and the add on type.
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and you've had 2 or more coils both fail after 3-4 hours? Dang I was sure the resistor was problem. Let's verify the resistor is working. Got a voltmeter? Engine off, key on. Points open: what is voltage to ground on both + and - sides of coil? should be nominal 12V (probably about 12.8) points closed, same measurements: low side should be zero, high side something like 6V (a guess on my part). The missing part of the 12V should be dropped across your resistor. oh, you don't have a good coil to try this with? bummer Is the coil mounted where it can get quite hot?
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Levi, I have never had the problem you have. I am thinking that the coil is mounted in an area where it gets too hot. How about posting a picture of your mount. Also remember to be sure that the case of the coil is grounded. If not, it will arc internally and destroy itself.
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Did you get the older type coils that are made for points based ignitions, or could they be for electronic setups? Can't see any reason for the right type coils going bad like these have.
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Levi, I see a condenser on the coil. Did you remove the one in the points box? I'll have to take a look at the ones that I have tomorrow. I know that the Kohlers have the coil mounted down on the side of the engine away from the heat of the head. I don't remember exactly how I mounted the coil on the B/S, so I have to check.
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1) Is the condenser a battery ignition type? and do you still have one in the points box? 2) Is it oil or epoxy fill (because it's laying over) 3) When running, what is the voltage to the coil 4) Hot to + and points to - 5) Recheck point gap With you I'm sure these are OK but doesn't hurt to bring them up. Can't think of anything else right now.
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I did a battery ignition conversion on my 7014 last year, using a kohler coil mounted in the same spot as shown in the pictures. To date, I have not had an issue with this setup. The coil is internally ballasted, originally designed for kohler engines and can be found at www.jackssmallengines.com - part #460048. I also added a pointsaver from www.kirkengines.com that eliminates the condenser and turns the points into an on-off switch for the ignition which is supposed to greatly extend the life of the points themselves. A worthwhile investment thus far. ;)
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The coil on it right now, in the pics, is off of a extra kohler engine I have. It lasted about 3 hours, the one before this one was a new NAPA resistor auto type, it lasted about a year. I do not remember if I removed the condinser on the engine or just unhooked it.
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Levi, Here is the mount of my coil. I don't really see much difference between yours and mine. This one has been on mine for 8 or 9 years. The first one I had was a motorcycle coil and it lasted about 12 years. It was mounted in the same spot.



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I don't know but I put anouther coil and condenser on and it runs again, we will see. I also checked if the condenser was still in the points box, and it is not there.
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Levi, Like I said before make sure the case of that coil is grounded well. Hook a ground wire to the coil and direct to the ground connection. A floating ground on the case can kill a coil quickly. Without the case grounded, internal arcing can sometimes occur. I don't feel comfortable that the shroud is well grounded where your coil it mounted. Just my opinion, but I would try it just as an extra safety factor.
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