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Simplicity314

Governor problem

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Simplicity314
Well, after almost a year of sitting, I finally got the 64 LL running. Turned out to be some sediment in the gas tank (That didn't take a year to find...I just started toying with it yesterday!). Anyway, after I figured that out, and a carb rebuild, it fired right up. It idled fine, but when I moved the throttle lever, the gov. lever would just travel down until it hit WOT and stay there. I would have to force the throttle plate back with my finger so the engine wouldn't blow up, and there is a lot of force on it! I bent and unbent the throttle link, to no avail. Also tried a different working carb and it had the same symptoms. What can this be? I haven't touched the governor. The adjustments are rusty and there are no clean threads indicating that the nuts have been turned or traveled. All springs and adjustments were on, and they should be strong enough to pull the lever back. Any input would be appreciated. Thanks.

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ReedS
Jim I highly recommend checking the govenor assembly. I just lost a 44 year old engine due to what I suspect was a govenor failure. (engine was full of oil,crank was good and rod was in several pieces govenor nowhere in sight). Make sure your govenor shaft isnt worn and that the weights are free.

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Simplicity314
Hence the miscellaneous 23D parts for sale in the classifieds section? Sorry to hear about the motor. That's too bad. Well, I went out and just moved the gov. lever by hand and compared it to the govs on my other engines and it feels the same as the others. If anything, the return springs felt stronger than the other machines. But for whatever reason, it thinks it has a load on it when the throttle lever gets to 1/2 or so. So I guess it's exploratory surgery time. Wanted to ask before I tore it apart then later figure out it was something stupid I forgot to do when putting the engine back in.

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ReedS
Your assumption is correct in regard the parts ad, I would have repaired it had the block been ok but, alas it was not to be. On tear down it was kinda like the chicken and the egg question, (which came first) but, since the rod was not seized to the crank and the govenor ended up in the waste oil I'm thinking that the govenor found itself in the way of the rod and boy what a mess that made. On the bright side there are a few salvageble (rare?) parts that maybe someone can use.:O

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BLT
Jim if the relationship between the governor arm and throttle plate are not 'dead on' , the engine will want to run away. It is a simple adjustment. With the carb in WOT, the governor arm should be bottomed out against the weights, so when the engine starts, the weights take control of engine speed depending on the throttle setting. And it doesn't take much to be out of adjustment.

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Simplicity314
quote:
Originally posted by BLT
Jim if the relationship between the governor arm and throttle plate are not 'dead on' , the engine will want to run away. It is a simple adjustment. With the carb in WOT, the governor arm should be bottomed out against the weights, so when the engine starts, the weights take control of engine speed depending on the throttle setting. And it doesn't take much to be out of adjustment.
Bob--that seemed to work. I fooled around with it today and I got it running okay. Seems to be an issue with the carb linkage to the gov arm--it's worn or bent so the bend passes through the hole n the carb, which delays the response somewhat, but it's responding at least. I'm guessing I bent it when removing/installing the carb since that is the only linkage to the machine. Reed--I am semi-permanently istalling my tach on this machine so I can keep an eye on the rpms--really don't want to meet your fate. Thanks for the input.

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ReedS
Actually, Jim the engine gave me no clue that it was about to self-destruct, I thought that I had hit a rock while mowing, then it quit and made the I'm broken kinda noise when I tried to crank it up.:OB)XX(

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Simplicity314
quote:
Originally posted by ReedS
Actually, Jim the engine gave me no clue that it was about to self-destruct, I thought that I had hit a rock while mowing, then it quit and made the I'm broken kinda noise when I tried to crank it up.:OB)XX(
No? I kinda pictured the governor running away making the thing melt down. At any rate, that is the second internal thing making me nervous, the first being a thread a while ago about points plungers. Checking these things as well as things like wrist pins and rods is way over due. Maybe after the colchester show but before the snow starts flying will be a good time to go in while it is still by choice rather than necessity.

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bob1959
I had the same problem ounce after rebuilding a carb. It turned out that I had the eyelet that the governor attaches to on the wrong side. That caused the governor to work right but the carb to be reversed. When the goverenor would try to decrease it was increasing the carb. You may want to ck to see if the eyelet is facing forward towards the muffler or back towards the seat. It should be facing forward. If is not you need to remove the butterfly and turn it over and reinstall.

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Simplicity314
quote:
Originally posted by bob1959
I had the same problem ounce after rebuilding a carb. It turned out that I had the eyelet that the governor attaches to on the wrong side. That caused the governor to work right but the carb to be reversed. When the goverenor would try to decrease it was increasing the carb. You may want to ck to see if the eyelet is facing forward towards the muffler or back towards the seat. It should be facing forward. If is not you need to remove the butterfly and turn it over and reinstall.
Thanks for the suggestion but that isn't the problem. I'd have a hard time adjusting the idle screw if the shaft was 180'd.

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