DeltaBravo 0 Posted August 23, 2007 I've been working on a 7016 with a Briggs 16hp engine and large flo-jet carb. Also poking around here, great site!, and have become a Simplicity, AC fan. I bought the 7016 because of it's versatility, and I like old cars and machinery. The deal included a trailer, cultivator and Mighty Mac chipper. The rust bucket MM will be a project. I've found some issues that I think would make the engine cut in and out, idle to full throttle, and just wondering what you guys think. I found: 1) no carb runner to governor bracket gasket 2) no gov bracket to engine block gasket for carb runner 3) carb runner to carb body gasket partially blocking the runner opening 4) carb welch plug loose 5) throttle bushings with too much clearance - woobly 6) coil armature clearance of .006 instead of .010 to .014 7) a scuffing sound coming from under the flywheel cover. #1 & 2 aren't in the carb kit so I'll make those. Probably not a big deal in terms of the issues, but it will eliminate unaccounted for air leaks and dirt. #3 Replaced the partially blocking gasket. Again probably no an issue. #4 Replaced the welch plug, staked with sealer around outer edge. Probably just an unfiltered air issue since it is before the carb. #5 Replaced bushings during carb rebuild. It was pretty clean and the float seemed empty (yeah!). This could be a big issue except for #6. I noticed the p/o had the idle fuel kind of fat. #6 Adjusted armature to specs of .010 to .014. #7 I found a slight amount of rubbing on the outside diameter of the flywheel. Only in a couple of places though. For #6, I noticed a tiny, tiny build up of surface rust. This is almost unnoticeable. I'm thinking this might have accounted for the gap difference, and am thinking of giving it a slight brush off with 240 or 400 grit, paying close attention to the magnet and removing the particles, and then a very light wipe of fogging oil or cosmoline. I'm replacing the head gasket also. Looked like a leak issue, but turned out to be a build up of blackened oil in one suspicious spot. I was really curious to check the head and piston's carbon build up, valve coloring, and cylinder wall anyways. All look proper, heck there's even some factory cross hatching toward the front pto end. Valves clearances are on spec. Compression around 60 - 65. Thanks for reading this long posting. Any cautions and recommendations? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
HubbardRA 19 Posted August 23, 2007 Looks like you have nearly everything covered. Hope it runs good when you finish. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Willy 2 Posted August 24, 2007 Well you sound like a military man with everything under control. Should run good when you finish. Good luck. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
DeltaBravo 0 Posted August 24, 2007 Thanks. The nickname was given to me by a military friend. I think it's important to write some memoirs about service for family history, and thank those vets you meet. I'm in the process of cleaning and painting this 7016. I found the Valspar International white to be a match for the AC white. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
HubbardRA 19 Posted August 24, 2007 I bought the paint for the wheels on my 713S from True Value. It is called Navajho white. It matches the color of the wheels before painting. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
DeltaBravo 0 Posted August 29, 2007 Good to know about the paint. A correction on compression. Checking my notes, compression is 60 on the first stroke, 90 on second to the fifth. I'm down to the steering and rest of frame on painting. Over the years I've turned the ugly into fantastic, but it still amazes me how good things look after some tlc cleaning, preping and painting. Then comes the task of avoiding scratches during reassembly! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites