Jump to content

Unofficial Home of Old Simplicity & Allis-Chalmers Garden Tractors

Engine died while mowing


KDurkee

Recommended Posts

I did a search and found some good things to try, but since I didn't really find anything specific to my exact problem, I still want to run this by you guys just to try and save myself some work. I have a 5216H with a 16HP twin Briggs that I have been using for 2 years now. I had to rebuild the carb last year when I got it, but other than that it has been a sweet running machine. Today I was mowing for about 2.5 hours when all of a sudden the engine just quit as if I had turned the key off. The first thing I did was drain the carb, since it sat out in the rain this past weekend for the first time. There was no water in the fuel that I drained out. The next thing I did was to pull a spark plug boot and do the 'screwdriver to the top of the plug' trick to see if there was any spark. There was not. Everything else looks good. Any suggestions for a good place to start? Any common problems related to this? Thanks! Keith
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I just tried to fire it again after sitting for 2 hours and still no spark. Could the condenser go all of a sudden like that?
Link to comment
Share on other sites

It won't have a condenser, it will have electronic (Magnetron) ignition. It sounds like a text book case of a bad coil to me. There is no test to see if the ignition module is good, so you will just have to replace it. Before you go buy the part, however, there are a couple checks you can do. Remove the flywheel shroud, and make sure you have .010 thousandths air gap in between the legs of the module and the flywheel magnets. If they are rusty (surface rust, not structural), that's ok, rust does not affect magnetism. If the gap is close to what it should be, remove the kill wire that connects to the coil, and test for spark again. If you have no spark, replace the coil. If you have spark, follow that kill wire, it is shorted somewhere in the circuit, causing your no spark condition. Hope this helps, Andy
Link to comment
Share on other sites

quote:
Originally posted by andrewk
It won't have a condenser, it will have electronic (Magnetron) ignition. It sounds like a text book case of a bad coil to me. There is no test to see if the ignition module is good, so you will just have to replace it. Before you go buy the part, however, there are a couple checks you can do. Remove the flywheel shroud, and make sure you have .010 thousandths air gap in between the legs of the module and the flywheel magnets. If they are rusty (surface rust, not structural), that's ok, rust does not affect magnetism. If the gap is close to what it should be, remove the kill wire that connects to the coil, and test for spark again. If you have no spark, replace the coil. If you have spark, follow that kill wire, it is shorted somewhere in the circuit, causing your no spark condition. Hope this helps, Andy
Thanks Andy! Ya, I just pulled the sheet metal and realized that it had the Magnatron unit. :I I checked spark again and got very little...barely noticeable. I'll pull the kill wire and do another check. Thanks much for your reply, buddy! Keith
Link to comment
Share on other sites

It appears to be the module. I check with the kill wile unhooked and there was still just a barely noticeable spark. You don't happen to have a part number do you? Thanks!
Link to comment
Share on other sites

quote:
Originally posted by KDurkee
It appears to be the module. I check with the kill wile unhooked and there was still just a barely noticeable spark. You don't happen to have a part number do you? Thanks!
Anytime man, glad I could be of service- I can get you the part number... what is the model and type number of the engine? Should be stamped on the sheet metal somewhere. The part # is on the tip of my tongue, just can't think of it right now- Andy
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I found it. Engine # 402707. Module # 394891. I'm going to try my local dealer tomorrow. Otherwise, are there any sponsors to the site that I should look to for ordering? I see that there is an aftermarket module available for about $10 cheaper. Are the aftermarket parts good, or should I just stay with Briggs parts?
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I have aftermarket coils on everything I own except the new Briggs 16hp and I have never had any problems with them. They probably make the Briggs parts in the same chinese plant that make the aftermarket parts.
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Yup, thats the part number- We use the aftermarket coils in our shop, since they have better profit margins. Have gotten them in OEM boxes before too! So far, no problems whatsoever. Your local dealer, depending on size, should have one. They are a relatively fast moving part, at least in our neck of the woods. Hope everything works out for you! Andy
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks again for the help and the quick responses. You guys make this site great. I'll post with results when I get the new parts installed.
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.
×
×
  • Create New...