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mbrook

7016 ignition/wiring

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mbrook
I'm having some wiring difficulties with a 7016 that I picked up a few years back. Some breif history on the tractor might help. I bought it for $50 and it was in a state of dispare. I went through many different ideas as to what to do with and have finally decided to fix it. The wiring that was left in it was in terrible condition. The previous owner had let the key switch come loose and just twisted it until it started to short out. Here is what I did, I replaced the wiring based on my 7013. Once I finished it I was able to start the tractor. Everything seemed okay until I turned the key to the off position, the tractor stayed running. I tried the key switch from my 7013, but the same happened. Do I have something wired wrong (I've checked 3 or 4 times), or is it something else?

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DMedal
Assuming your ignition is still stock, your key switch grounds out the points when in "off". There's a wire goes straight from the key switch to the points box(on mine anyway). I bet on yours that wire isn't intact anymore. Hey, it's better than the other way around, where that wire is shorted to ground and it won't run at all. So how did ya stop it? <grin> -Don

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mbrook
Don, when you say ignition are you referring to the key switch or the engine ignition? I have no clue what has been done to the engine prior to me getting it. As for the key switch, it is a stock switch. Also, the wire from the key switch to the points, which then goes behind the cooling shroud, has been replaced. As for shutting it off, I have just pulled the plug wire, but I've been hit twice so far.

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skunkhome
quote:
Originally posted by mbrook
As for shutting it off, I have just pulled the plug wire, but I've been hit twice so far.
Next time just take a screwdriver and touch the tip to the cyl head then tip it over onto the head of the spark plug. Of course you hold the screw driver by the plastic handle.

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DMedal
Hi again Mark, Wilm169 raises a good point. If your switch is just dangling there it won't kill the engine. Has to be grounded by the dash. If that works, skip the following and go to success and tractor time. a) Engine: Briggs or Kohler? (send pic if you don't know) b) For both of these, do the test while the engine is running. if Briggs, take a piece of wire and connect it between ground and the points connection when the engine is running. The engine should die. That's what your wire to the ignition switch should do. If Kohler disconnect the wire from switch to points (that goes under shroud) Engine should die. c) if test B works, check that the wire isn't cut or pinched. If not, and IF your switch has a good ground, you need another switch that matches the engine. Right now my money is on the switch not being grounded. If you turn it to off position and then somehow ground the switch (a length of wire touched to switch and bare metal on the engine, for example) I'm betting it stops. -Don

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