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rsnik

Somebody stop me

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rsnik
I installed the points eliminator that Duckman fixed me up with and it makes the Briggs in the 7013 run like a champ. I must have had a points plunger issue. I notice that I can adjust the carb better now to where I can screw the jet in, screw the jet out, find the middle and then richen by tiny increments until you can throw the throttle from idle to WOT without any stumble. I took the wire from the points, as the instructions said, and cut the kill wire and married the points wire, the kill wire and the wire from the points eliminator with a wire nut. The 7013 has been running like a sack of warts so you can understand how satisfied I was when it ran great. Only issue is, when you turn off the ignition the engine keeps running. It runs so good I will be happy to pull the spark plug wire off to stop it. However, suppose I take the other end of the kill wire switch (that goes to the ignition switch) that I cut and splice it in with the other three wires in the wire nut. Will this make the ignition switch work again? Or is there something else I should do?

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DMedal
I'm not understanding your description very well, so I could have this wrong. If your electronic module goes in the former points box everything sort of works out in terms of wiring. One end of the electronic module connects to ground, the other (let's call this wire P) connects to the coil wire which formerly attached to the points. That connection (P) is also where the kill switch wire connects, pretty much just as it did when you had points. Is this what you are doing? -Don

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rsnik
Maybe I should clarify. I mounted the points eliminator with the cap screw that used to attach the condenser. I curled the ground wire under the transistor unit so the fastening cap screw went through the pan head terminal of the ground wire, effecting the ground. I cut the kill wire and spliced the end which goes to the coil together with the wire which goes to the points and the positive wire from the points eliminator with the wire nut.

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DMedal
and that didn't work? next time you have to stop it, short the connection you describe to the engine block somehow. it should die. If it does, scope out the wire to the ignition switch again, possibly your splice isn't solid electrically. If you keep pulling the plug wire eventually it gets broken inside at the boot. Which is why a person ought to fix the kill switch promptly. You can see where I got that info. -Don

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rsnik
The kill wire I cut goes from the ignition switch to the coil. The kill wire goes from the ignition switch to the coil and when you turn the ignition off you are just grounding out the coil. I cut the kill wire which goes from the ignition switch to the coil and spliced the end which goes to the coil together with the positive wire from the points eliminator and the wire which connects to the condenser/points. Obviously the kill wire from the ignition switch is now connected to nothing. I am assuming I should splice the end of the kill wire from the ignition together with the rest of the wires and when you turn off the switch it will ground out everything and the engine will stop. Problem is, often when I assume something the next thing is the "magic smoke" comes out of some expensive component. And you know, you can't make the magic smoke go back in there again, LOL!

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skunkhome
quote:
Originally posted by duckman
If you keep pulling the plug wire eventually it gets broken inside at the boot. Which is why a person ought to fix the kill switch promptly. You can see where I got that info. -Don
In an "emergency" If your plug wire does not have a boot on the end it is best to just take a screwdriver and ground the tip of the spark plug to the head.

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rsnik
Hi Greg, Been thinking about you all day. Sorry to hear you're on the Kohler. I hope they get that Kohlera fixed real soon. There is now no points or condenser in the points box. I kept that points plunger retainer in place but that's it. The points wire is spliced with the kill wire that goes to the coil along with the positive wire from the points eliminator. I am using the same schematic you posted. In your opinion, does the dotted line from the stop switch to the coil mean I should take the cut off end of the kill wire which goes to the ignition switch and splice it in with the other 3 wires that are spliced into the wire nut? I am really starting to think this is the idea.

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rsnik
Hi Duckman, I would have to put the points back in to get a before picture, but I probably should take some pictures. Believe me, when some new points and a condenser costs $40 and this $12.95 transistor makes your engine run vastly better, this has to be a topic of interest.

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