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Omega Electronic Module Not Working


JimH

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Switching a 10HP Briggs ('64 Landlord) over to electronic ignition. I have spark with the points installed. As soon as I hook up the omega module, no spark. I have it wired as directed and have a good ground. Motor is out of Tractor as I want to make sure this unit will work before I install the motor back in tractor. Is there a way to test the module? Suggestions please?
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I just did this with a transistorized points eliminator from the Mans One Stop Store. I assume you are mounting the unit in the points area since the engine is out of the tractor. One wire grounds the unit. The other wire splices in with the wire to the points/condenser and the kill wire. On the bench, that should do it. In the tractor you will have to additionally splice in the other end of the kill wire which goes to the ignition switch to shut the engine off. If that doesn't do it you can always order another one from the Man's One Stop Shop http://cgi.ebay.com/ELECTRONIC-IGNITION-MODULE-REPLACES-POINTS-CONDENSOR_W0QQitemZ120165315032QQihZ002QQcategoryZ50377QQtcZphotoQQcmdZViewItem
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I have used the Omega module on several older 10hp cast irons, did you try reversing the wires? I think it says something in the instruction paper it comes with, otherwise it could be a ground issue.. Or it's possible you have a bad unit.:(
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This is still a magneto ignition, yes? no external battery driven coil? (on a 64 who knows?) Otherwise, if you've hooked it up as in the instructions that's the only "test" there is. -Don
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You may have a bad module. Same thing happened with my 7016 with magneto ignition. Spark with points, spark with melted Atom module, no spark with Napa Omega module, nor with switching the wires. Napa replaced it under warranty, but I haven't hooked it up yet. Points have been reliable after I replaced a bad condenser. BTW, this is also known as the Mega-fire II module. Is there a difference between the I and II modules, other than the shape and marketing?
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Thank's for your inputs. I switched back to points for now so I can get the motor installed and running. When I get a chance I will get another module to try.
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  • 4 weeks later...
Since this was about the omega module, which I believe is what NAPA sells, I'll add to this topic. Looks like I need to replace my points, but since I have the module, I decided to disconnect the magneto wire to the points and wire it in. Guess what, again no spark. This is a replacement for a previous no spark module from NAPA. I have good ground from the module case to the battery, and the magneto signal is 17-20 mA cranking. Cranking speed is 10-11 Hz. The module is creating about 2 volts at the plug. These readings are from a digital DVOM. 2 volts with the wires reversed as well. I remember reading here, the B&S manual or elsewhere online about the acceptable magneto signal, but couldn't find it here. I'll check the manual. In the meantime, does anyone know if this is an adequate magneto signal strength?
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Dave, from the sound of your post, it may be possible that my module is good, and that I may have another issue going on. Definately sound's like I need to check the voltage while cranking.
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quote:
Originally posted by DeltaBravo I have good ground from the module case to the battery, and the magneto signal is 17-20 mA cranking. Cranking speed is 10-11 Hz. The module is creating about 2 volts at the plug. These readings are from a digital DVOM. 2 volts with the wires reversed as well.
I am unaware of a DVM that will read spark voltages which would be in the range of several thousand volts. In fact I had a nice DVM on my Landlord reading the battery voltage when the lead vibrated off the battery and made contact with the spark cable. Since then the meter still works but the display is of some totally random voltage, not what I'm hooked to. While not totally reliable, you can get a good idea of the presence and "heat" of spark by just connecting the plug wire to a good plug which is out of the engine and grounded. -Don
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I bought one recently from Napa. It is installed but have yet to try starting it. In the directions it says that it needs a good "coil" to work even it it fired with the points it may not be good enough for use with the module. Just a suggestion.
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Thanks for the replies. There is no spark at an extra plug that I've grounded with a jumper wire. I always do this to check for spark when working on ignition. I used the meter to see if the module was doing anything. Sure wish it made a nice blue and white spark. The Atom module I managed to melt produced a nice spark. Engine ran well also. Too bad I didn't think of locating it where I now have the Napa module located. What lead up to this new problem occurred after I had mowed over 90 minutes. I had noticed a few random misfires over the past 30 minutes, then there was about 1 ever 3-5 seconds. I thought fuel was low (under 1/4), refueled, started, and now the misfires were 1 or more per second. Wiggling the magneto and plug wires has no effect, which is good. Yesterday I pulled the point cover and noticed orange sparking at the points. No sparking condenser. Some point spark is where the contacts meet, but some is at the contact edges. A misfire occurs when there is a spark at the contact edges. I ran some 400 between the contacts and wiped them with a clean cloth. Engine ran better, but still misfired. Today I pulled the points, they are burnt, so I took 400 to them til they where clean. Wiped them clean. Reinstalled points. Misses and point spark like yesterday. When dark, there is very little spark at the contacts, but spark at the contact edges when missing. This doesn't look like a typical spark to ground, although it has to be. The spark or path is really faint. Condenser? The 326431 flywheels are one magnet or are they two? The module won't work with two magnet flywheels.
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quote:
Originally posted by DeltaBravo Condenser?
Condenser. Maybe coil with an internal arc but I'd put my money on condenser. -Don
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I replaced the condenser with another from Napa and the tractor mowed fine for the 90 minutes before it was dark. I will return the bad one for warranty. One measures 226 uf, the other 229 uf. This made in China stuff specs out fine when new, but put a little stress on it like some engine heat, and it breaks down. I'll be ordering a genuine B&S points and condenser tomorrow. The time and effort diagnosing this cheaply made stuff is aggravating. Napa was 1/4 the distance and available the next day versus 7 days, otherwise I would have initially gone to the dealer. Arrg.
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I had a problem with one I installed on a Briggs 16hp. When cranking to start, it would backfire loud, then take forever to start. I tried all their troubleshooting tips, but nothing worked. Ended up putting the points back in.
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