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Stripped exhaust port thread repair


EricD

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Have a little techumseh with stripped threads in the exhaust port. Engine had too big and heavy of a muffler on it that worked everything loose and buggered it all up. The exhaust pipe is out. What repair works? Thanks.
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possible heli coil? idk bout the tap part that may require a pipe tap which if i am correct, are not cheap. but others may bave other info. personally heli coil may or may not last so that is up to you. matt
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It's a techumseh, throw it away, and get a Briggs.}:):o):D Eric, is this in a old tractor? If it's not and you don't care what is in it, the new techumseh are cheep enough to get a new one. Just a thought.
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If it's the big pipe tread I've seen a lot of this on the aluminum block Tec.. Just use a muffler that bolts on with the two bolt holes. In the long run it is cheaper and less aggrevating.
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This is probably one of those questions where EVERYONE else knows the answer... How come this doesn't happen with a Briggs when we hang those huge stack mufflers off the head block on a long lever arm(pipe)? -Don
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I have a similar problem with my B-12. The previous owner left the muffler loose and it vibrated and ruined the threads, a muffler still holds in there but I can't tighten it, the engine runs great and there aren't many of these old 12's around anymore so I don't want to junk the engine. I'm assuming the tecumseh engine is an aluminum block? My briggs is cast iron and I was thinking about having it welded up and re-tapped so I can still use the 1" pipe, but I don't know if welding so close to the cylinder could cause a problem.
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I found some big pipe taps at a garage sale this weekend and now realize I should have picked them up. Duh!!
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This is an aluminum block. Excellent runner. It's on a go cart I've been tinkering with. Other problem I failed to mention is that one of the two mounting threads along side the stripped port has a stubby broken stud in it. My temporary/cheap/half baked solution at this point has been to get a very tiny muffler that is featherlight and secure it in place as best as what is left of the threads will do. Because the muffler threading is smaller than the exhuast port, I used a one inch adapter fitting to attach it to the block. There is very little weight bearing on the port threads this way. I then used a bolt and large washer in the one good mounting hole to "lock" the muffler into the block. This might tide me over until I get all the parts for phase two of this cart. I'm gathering materials in prep for phase two. Tomorrow I'll be picking up a Panzer rear end. Then I'll be looking for an older snowmobile to be an engine and parts donor. The techumseh has just a temporary powersource for me to be sure I want to put the time and effort into this frame as a project. Thanks to everyone who responded. E
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Considering the age and value, why not try to braze a piece of pipe with the correct threads and just attach a small lawnmower muffler to that. A four or six inch piece of pipe should not weigh much and you might get a lot of life out of it. My snowblowers have such an arrangement and work ok.
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I've had pretty good luck just running the proper size tap into cast iron briggs engines. Probably work fine in an aluminum blocks too.
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An old trick I have used for such is to cut slots parallel to the threads on the pipe I intend to use in the block, usually 3 or 4 slots. Cut the slots with a hacksaw, but do not cut through the pipe. This will act like a tap of sorts, and will clean the threads and realign them as the pipe is screwed into the block. It is best to leave the pipe or muffler, whichever you use, in, once you have installed it. Tighten but do not over tighten, as this will cause an even bigger problem. You say there us a broken stud in one of the holes? Weld a washer on the stub, use a pair of pliers, vice grips, or a pipe wrench to turn the washer. With a little effort and patience, you might get the stud out, and that will solve your problem, too.
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