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Dark
I accuired a plow made from brinkly its missing alot of parts one of them is the guide wheel. Is this wheel mount supposed to be free movement or ridged? A top photo of any plow would help me fabricate the proper mount and guide wheel for this plow I cant figure out the mount from any photos that I have seen from the brocures issued by simplicity.

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olcowhand
Here's my 2-bottom I made from two 10" Brinly's. Maybe it'll help a bit. I just slid the 1/2" plate between the two bars forming the plow frame, then welded in proper place. You might wanna bore 3 or 4 holes in bar for coulter blade so you can adjust if needed.
[img]http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a31/olcowhand_in_ky/DSC00260.jpg[/img]

[img]http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a31/olcowhand_in_ky/DSC00272.jpg[/img]

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DMedal
The guide wheel you refer to is called a coulter by plow boys. Search this forum for "coulter" in the box above and you'll find a thread called Question about Plowing. In that thread you'll find an image of the original manual's instructions for setting up the plow and coulter. it should be sharp. Most of the Brinleys you find on this site are pretty, and mostly live for show. Plowshare plowing is recognized now as a destructive farming practice (good short term tho) and that's why you don't see the big iron guys do it so much anymore. This thread reminds me I have hacking and welding to get done. -Don -Don

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Dark
ok...here is what was done today 1. Stripped plow down to pile of parts and removed NON-OEM angle iron 2. Replaced the adjusting plate 3. Fabricated from #50 plate a coulter 10"x1/4" 4. Fabricated a spindle assy for coulter blade/disk and arm 5. Fabricated a hitch assy (thanks for this site having drawings) Things yet to do: 1. Sharpen coulter blade/disk 2. Attach coulter blade/disk to arm and frame 3. Fabricate chain and Lift bar w/pins 4. Assemble hitch assy to plow Thing I still need: Pic of the left side of a single plow coulter arm w/swivel as I dont know what the swivel arm is secured to nor the parts shown clearly on top of the arm a bar runs across to the frame some where but I don't know what it attaches to. There is a steel ring that the arm attaches to the frame with but the L/R adjustments screws and this top piece I dont have referance to

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Roy
Try the Brinly web site. "www.brinly.com" They may have a parts manual for your plow which should show what you are looking for. Or, call them at: "toll free customer service number at 1-877-728-8224" The current plow is their P.N PP-51 BH. See if they will send you a copy of the Owner's Manual which includes a parts picture & list. Edited to add Brinly info.

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CarlH
Sears sells Brinly equipment. Here are some model numbers that can be used at the Sears site to locate parts/illustrations. Type Sears Model Number Manufacturer Cab 922.24174 Original Tractor Cab Cab 922.261660 Original Tractor Cab sicklebar mower 842.26002 Haban sicklebar mower 917.253120 Haban sicklebar mower 917.251520 Haban BH box scraper 071.242-41000 Brinly Hardy 24241 BH cultivator 071.242-05000 Brinly Hardy 24205 BH Utility Deck 071.244-11000 Brinly Hardy 24411 BH Furrow Opener 071.245-23000 4 KW generator 580.327720 Generac Disk harrow (pull type) 757.24232 BH plow 757.24233 Brinly Hardy 24233 BH disk 757.24234 Brinly Hardy 24234 BH grader blade 757.24239 Brinly Hardy 24239 BH cultivator 757.242xx Brinly Hardy 24205 BH box scraper 757.242xx Brinly Hardy 24241 BH Utility Deck 757.244xx Brinley Hardy 24411 BH Furrow Opener 757.245xx Cab 75000 Loader 100.262301 cultivator 917.252240,50 Three point hitch 917.251781 Three point hitch 917.253050,60 Electric three point hitch 917.253130 Plow cat 0 eq 917.253010,20 Kwik-Way loader 100.26210 Kwik-Way

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DMedal
Mark- If you're going to plow with it someday you'll probably want to heat treat the coulter as it is functionally a knife and takes a real beating. I'm looking forward to more pictures! -Don

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Dark
LOL hmmm a plow that don't... My landlord is a nice tractor and has alot of power pulling this plow will be fun. I have 5 acres to play in but the main use will be to make water runoff for the race track (love tractor racing)its the best sport of the mowllenium.

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Dark
well hooked it up for a trial run today 8Cshear isnt digging very well we have a simplicity deal 20 miles from here I will call Den up tomorrow and get a new shear when we added weight the old tractor kept pulling sm04 I just have to get the lead out of the mix

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DMedal
Not sure what you've got for neighbors but if you've got an old-time farmer in the neighborhood seek out help with setup there. I'm told there's a bit of a trick to getting the thing setup that folks that have plowed for a living just know. It's all in the angles if everything is sharp. By shear you mean the plowshare, I assume. Having plenty of pulling power is a good thing, so you're off to a good start! -Don

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Dark
Well good advice is priceless I live in a farming community (Rual Nebraska)The coffee shop boys tell me that I needed to turn the right wheel around and move the plow closer to where it rides in the forrow taking a bite that is only a few inches at a time each cut has to cover the other (front of plow no more then 3 " from the inside of the right tire)............Damn more fabrication requires for a new draw bar assy.........!

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Dark
ok the draw bar was refabed, went for a test drive she pulled 6" deep 8 inches wide, pretty furrows. with each pass the mouldboard cleqned up and started to do what it is suppose to do. I plowed up 1 1/2 acres today the land was flat the mouldboared pushed everything right and the plow did a great job!! as soon as I find the drivers for XP to let my camera work ill post pics

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perry
took me awhile to get my plow figured out also. i remembered that i had the brinley manual, so after i read it i was going about it all wrong. i had to measure the distant inbetween my inner rear tires and that determens witch one of the 3 holes to use in the plow hitch. then it says to pitch the plow so it digs deep for on your first furrow. then after you drive into the first furrow you stop and adjust your plow so that the rear tail runs just off the ground next to the furrow wall.{ see pic 3} after i did all this last spring it really plowed nice. the ground in the spring was perfect for plowing. being so dry this this fall i notice that with the ground condition i had to really play around with the depth after making the first furrow. let me know if you need more info. [IMG]http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l226/perry71/misctractorpics040.jpg[/IMG] [IMG]http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l226/perry71/misctractorpics041.jpg[/IMG] [IMG]http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l226/perry71/april21plowday099.jpg[/IMG] [IMG]http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l226/perry71/april21plowday098.jpg[/IMG] [IMG]http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l226/perry71/april21plowday091.jpg[/IMG] my video [url]http://s97.photobucket.com/albums/l226/perry71/?action=view¤t=april21plowday002.flv[/url]

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rsnik
There already is a "moldboard plow operation" post in the Commonly Asked Questions, however, this post is also loaded with info. Can this post be put in as well? Viewing a video of the plow in operation is very helpful (and entertaining). The plow gets a lot of work done fast!

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john-holcomb
I don't know if this is good or bad but I did a couple of things different for my plow. First I don't like how far out the back the Brinley hitch sets the plow, so I made my own that hooks the plow right above the factory drawbar. This makes the plow a little lighter to lift since its in closer and also allows you in tuff ground to push the lift lever and really get alot of draft to the rear wheels, sort of a manual tracton booster. Second I got rid of the chain and made a fixed link from the lift to the beam of the plow, this allows you to push the plow into the ground if its starting hard or if it kicks up from a rock or root. This set up seems to wook well with the plow, field cultivator [homemade] and the back blade. The down pressure on the back blade relly makes it woork well if your looking to cut into hard gravel or packed dirt. If anyone wants pictures of my hitch just PM or E-mail me and I will send them. JW

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perry
quote:
Originally posted by Dark
Are those a set of forks from a bicycle??
they are a pair of forks from a honda spree. one day i was looking for something to lift things and grabbed the forks and they fit perfect nice and snug:). i use them for all my implements and towing dead tractors around. [IMG]http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l226/perry71/awards013.jpg[/IMG]
[img]http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l226/perry71/awards014.jpg?t=1191637846[/img]
[IMG]http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l226/perry71/april21plowday116.jpg[/IMG] more plow videos of last spring if you want to watch. http://s97.photobucket.com/albums/l226/perry71/?action=view¤t=april21plowday005.flv http://s97.photobucket.com/albums/l226/perry71/?action=view¤t=april21plowday003.flv

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MPH
Just a word of caution plowing with these tractors, think it was the bone dry hard clover patch that caused my problems about a month ago cause I have plowed a lot with both the 725 and the 64 landlord over the past several years, but I did tear up the diff in both of them the same day, in the same plot of dirt. My Goodyear and Firestone ag lugs get Good traction, so something else gave. Plowing sure is fun though.

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