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mooseman3210

New Find and a couple of more 416 pics

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mooseman3210
got this today from a guy up the road . Not an A-C but will fit with some minor adjustments big thing is i only paid $ 17.00 for it anyone got any idea what it goes too ?.






I took most of the day to get thease parts sanded down but was able to get a coat of primer before it got to late


I had a final coat on this tonight . will let it hang all night and then put it up in side the house for a couple of weeks to cure can anyone tell me how long i should let it cure before i put some wax on it ???.




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GregB
Bolens would be my guess also. I had a 1050 Tube frame at one point and I know they used the flat lift "rod" with a slot at the one end. GregB

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mooseman3210
the paint is all from a rattle can i don't have a paint gun but it is Tractor & implement Enamel Rust Ressistant Abrasion Ressistant High gloss Anti rust plus i used a sandable rust ressistant oxadizer red primer . this is what i thought would work best for my situation if you have a better idea for it please feel free to let me know . if there is a step i'm missing please let me know . What i have been doing . 1. wire brush all paint and deposits off. 2. sand down part 3. wash with gas 4.wash with alchol 5. hang and let dry 6 prime 3 coats with wet sanding in between 7. clean with tara cloth 8. paint 1 coat every 4 hours . 3 coats letting the coats sit over the heater . 9 letting the paint hang for 5 hours then applying an enamel . 10 sit over night over top of heater . 11. bring parts in side to keep warm and cure (but how long do i let them sit ??

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Chris727
It sounds like you probably have a slow drying paint. I would wait at least a week if not a lot longer to assemble anything. I generally follow these steps for metal prep, 1. Degrease the entire tractor with "gunk" engine degreaser or "Greased lightning," the latter shouldn't be used on something you are not planning on painting because it will discolor paint. 2. After its dissassemlbed only parts that are still greasy will be cleaned with gas. I wouldn't clean everything with gas. After using the gas to clean the grease it tends to leave a little bit of a film so I use wallyworld carb cleaner which works a lot like lacquer thinner, to rinse the area. 3. Clean with acry-solv. 4. Sand, sandblast, wire wheel, or use paint stripper to remove paint if necessary. I rarely use wire wheels because they leave deep scratches in the metal, but they are good for coarse finish cast iron parts. 5. Wipe down with acry solv 6. apply your choice of primer, if its a part that was very rusty I try to use as a base coat, an etch-primer from Du-Pont or SEM, these can be bought in spray cans at an auto paint store, rustoleum anti-rust is pretty good too. I wouldn't put more than enough primer on to hide the steel unless you are using it to fill pits.

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mooseman3210
thanks Chris I have been using a really light wire brush it seems to work well but doesn't last for very long . as of right now i don't have access to a sandblaster and money in the budget for someone else to sand blast isn't there . Thank you for the tips i will work on it also i after the gas i have been using alcohol it seems to take off any film and drys fast . What do you think ?

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TimJr
Here is one thing I have been told with regards to wax application on fresh paint. Wait - depending on the paint, it could be a couple weeks. Paint needs to outgas - let off fumes as it cures. The wax will trap it in. Most paints have a strong odor, and basically if you can still smell fresh paint on the part, it isn't done curing. Tim

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mooseman3210
Willy , I was wanting to wax it to have another layer of protection on it .If someone knows another way to put another layer of proctetion please let me know . We are going to be showing this one so any and all idea's are welcomw . Thank you David

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