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temichels

turning a 67 2012

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temichels
hello, I recently accuired a 2012, i am having a problem with starting it....it doesn't want to turn over 360, i have to jump a fully charged battery with my truck to get it to turn over....once it does it fires up fast but dies a coulple of times before it finally stays running steady, it does run pretty good, it does run somewhat rich and at high throttle does have a slight surging, unfortunately i haven't had a chance to put it under a load yet. also I have a second delco s/g, i did switch em to see if that was a problem and the other did the same as well...i know there r probably a zillion possibities, something is telling me possible bent valve, but I was hoping there maybe other possibilites I haven't thought of...Thanks Tim

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HubbardRA
What battery are you using? The small garden tractor batteries are not big enough for these machines. I had one that was acting the same way till I replaced the garden tractor battery with a 51R. It then started easily and stayed charged up.

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temichels
It can't be the battery I have tried two new battery's....both large one was a 550cc amp...the one i got now is 750cc....I had thought about that so I even put 1000 cc from one of my cars in there and that didn't change it abit... also when I jump it, it still wines or hangs on the high spot alittle even with the jump. Its old and rusty, i have thought about the ground, i even attached the ground right on the engine next to s/g....anyways, thank you for your ideas Tim

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DMedal
nice tractor, congrats. suggestion: pull the plug, ground the plug wire. put it in neutral. now attempt to turn the engine over by hand, using the generator belt or whatever works for you. it should turn freely, very freely with the belt off. That it starts better with a fully charged battery off your truck is a clue. the stock battery should have plenty of juice if charged. I agree, get the tractor battery load tested. If you have a voltmeter measure the voltage across the S/G when cranking, then across the battery. If you had a bent valve I don't think it would run as well as you describe once started. -Don

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PeppyDan
The starter button could be internally burnt or corroded. Also clean all electrical connections with a wire brush and apply a gel( I can't remember what it's name is) for good electrical conduction. Dan

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HubbardRA
Also check your valve clearances. B/S uses a small bump on the camshaft to open a valve slightly when turning over for starting to make the engine turn easier. If the valve clearance is too much, then the bump on the camshaft will not release some of the compression as it should, and will make it hard to turn over. I have one engine which has had that bump filed off the camshaft. That one requires a fully charged battery to spin the engine, or it will just stall when it hits compression. If I have difficulty getting it to turn over, I will roll the engine backward till it hits compression, then try starting. That way it gets to build up speed for a full revolution before hitting compression and will usually continue. Fortunately this engine starts easily. Usually if it pops past compression, it will fire and start. It has a battery-coil ignition system so the slower it turns, the better the spark.

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Roy
PeppyDan, "Noalox" is the preferred brand of conductive grease for electrical connections. "Noalox" stands for "no aluminum oxide". There are similar products with different names. It works great. I use it for numerous things including the pins on fluorescent lamps.

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temichels
Thank you all for your input...I am going to be working on the electrical first as it is old and probably could use changing. Due to my original gut feeling I am inclinded to try hubbard and roys ideas first, and then work from there. I will post some pictures and the problem and solution once i cure it...Once again Thanks Tim

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powerking_one
Tim, I think Rod hit the nail on the head (excessive exhaust valve clearance or worn cam bump). I'd put the compression gauge on it and see how how high it is. If it's more than 80-85 PSI , then the S/G would have this stalling problem. A possible work-around might be to put a smaller S/G pulley on it. I recall that old Wisconsin's used them and the early Kohler K241's on Cub Cadets (they didn't have compression release). Of course you'd have to change to a shorter belt. Upside is the S/G would charge better at lower engine RPM's. Tom (PK)

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temichels
Hello all. I am feeling good today, cause, you wouldn't believe what was causing that problem.....a negative ground cable, this cable was bought new a couple of months ago, so I would have never suspectied it, put a new one on today and she turns over nice....Thanks all for your input, some of the things u were talkin about I would have never know (ie the valve clearence) Once again thanks, and never leave out the ground cable as a possibility....lol Tim

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