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bob1959

3210 No spark

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bob1959
I have been working on a 10 HP briggs model 243421. I tore the thing down to get the rat nest out of it and put a new mag in it. also replaced the condenser and pts but am not getting any spark after I got it all put back together. The mag is adjusted to .010 at magnet. I had intermittent spark after I replaced mag but before I did the condenser and pts. I'm thinking that something most be grounded some where to bleed off charge. Need info on where to start and what to look for. What continuity cks should I do first and what amp or volts should be going through system and where to Ck? Thanks

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rsnik
I think the kill wire is first. Disconnect it from the ignition switch and make sure it is not shorting to ground anywhere along it's length. Then, (this is just me) I would buy the $14.95 points eliminator. Just take the little, metal transistor chip and ground the chip and the negative wire and remove the points wire from the points and connect the points wire to the positive wire from the chip. This eliminates the points and condenser as the source of the problem. It also, IMO, works better than points and condenser. If you go with the points eliminator permanently, I leave the points and condenser installed, but not connected, since removing them causes oil to gush out of numerous cap screw holes and the points plunger hole. Since it has been worked on, you should check your work, as in double check that everything is, indeed put together. I have failed to torque down the flywheel to spec and sheared the key as a result. If the engine is out of the tractor you might want to start here. If the key sheared or the kill wire or points wire got damaged under the flywheel during assembly and are shorting to ground it's not going to work.

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bob1959
The engine is out of the tractor. The ground shut off from the key is not attached. the wire from the pts and condenser through the cover to the cover plate seems in tack. The wire that also goes to that cover to the outside of the pts cover seems to be in tack. I will ck continuity between the ends of these wires then ck continuity to ground. I should not have continuity to ground.

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rsnik
The wire that is not the points wire, that goes to the outside of the points cover is, I think, the kill wire. Usually it is attached to an insulator of some type so it won't ground out. If that is your kill wire and it is grounding on your points cover that could be it.

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Ronald Hribar
Have you checked the flywheel. It has to be torqued properly and it doe not take a lot for the key to shear. I also agree to recheck your work with points and condenser. new condensers have known to be bad.

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goatfarmer
I had the same engine, that wouldn't get spark, if you tightened the screws on the points cover too tight. Must have been shorting something out.

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