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PeppyDan

New Loader Project Updated 7/06/08

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PeppyDan
Here are some pics of the loader I bought at Wapak swap meet last month. It is a Kwik Way self leveling loader, I believe it may be a model LOA55. It has a 36" bucket for now. I plan to make a quick detach and forks for it.






I am going to install it on one of my Sunstar's. It has power steering and 1" front spindles and is just heavier built than the 700 or 900 series tractors so I figure it's just a better starting point. I am going to need to widen it a few inches to make some things work out better. More pics to come! Dan

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PeppyDan
Here is a few more pics of the loader hanging over the Sunstar.














I am planning to make this a dedicated loader tractor so there are going to be a few changes made. I am going to remove the factory hydraulic lift cylinder and spool valve. I will then install the loaders spool in place of the original but it will be powered by a pump mounted to the output shaft on the transmission. The oil reservoir will also be in the area between the rear frame. I will punch holes in the side dash cover to allow access to the left side of the dash and the hoses have quick disconnects already on. This will made the loader easy to remove without removing the entire hydraulic system for the loader. The spool will be operated by the factory hydraulic levers (I have a second lever also) to give the loader a clean look when installed or removed and allow for the controls to be more at my fingertips. It will have 26x12x12 Ag's filled with W.W. fluid and more additional weight as needed. This is going to be a slow project that I hope to get started on this winter/spring. Dan P.S. I forgot to mention that I bought this loader for just $200 but need new rams for the front cylinders and possibly several hoses and fittings! Dan

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PeppyDan
quote:
Originally posted by MarksA-C
Looks like a fun project! You might want to clean off the sunstar though.
My brother also noticed the Sunstar needed washed. I drug it out from the barn. I need to put a engine in it and make sure everything works first then the "makin it purty" will come later. I don't need to worry about weld sparks or anything like that during the engineering or construction faze! Dan

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PeppyDan
I had conventional hernia surgery less than a week ago so the computer is about as close to tractors as I'll be able get for what seems like forever! I'm hoping that this loader will prevent this from needing to be done again! Something else that we are going to add to the loader is another location to pin the links that are pinned to the uprights for the self leveling feature. We will have these links pinned on the loader frame so we can "disable" that feature in order to get more roll back while using the bucket. I really have a lot more uses for the forks so they will probably be on 90 percent of the time but I want to have this option if I need it. Dan

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Tacey
It looks like that loader is well-proportioned for the Sunstar. It'll make a nice piece of eqipment when done. Good luck with it. What color are you going to paint the loader? I'd be tempted to do it in black. Tacey

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PeppyDan
I think I'll probably paint it orange to make it blend with the tractor. I really hadn't even given that a thought. There is about a thousand other things that need to get done before I need to make that decision but now I am thinking about it. Dan

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AGCO918
Dan, That is why i bought my AGCO 2027,having a loader is so much better on the body.My back just cant take the abuse like when i was younger.The loader is worth every penny for me to have on my tractor.

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PeppyDan
quote:
Originally posted by comet66
Around here we give the Sunstar Loader a real work out. It sure makes working alone a lot easier.
I betting that mine will get worked a lot too. Does the framework that is in front of the hood removable to allow access to the engine or does the hood just not open very far. That has been one thing I have been trying to figure out on mine. I have considered making the hood hinge at the upper seam and leave the lower sides attached to the inside brace. I am also trying to decide if a 18hp Magnum would be enough engine for it. I have a good running 18 hp magnum from a different Sunstar that I parted or I have a 20 hp magnum in pieces from this one. I also have a 25 hp Kohler Command that is suppose to run good but I have never heard it run. The 18 hp magnum just sounds like the easiest to install. Does anyone else have an opinion about this? Dan

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PeppyDan
quote:
Originally posted by Tacey
I like how that black attachment looks on there, comet66. Tacey
I do have to agree, it does look nice! May need to think about the color some more! Dan

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comet66
The front brace is pinned at both ends so the hood can be lifted far enough to check the oil. However if it was hinged as you suggest it would make it a lot easier to get to such items. Maybe these will help.




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Jason
quote:
Originally posted by PeppyDan
quote:
Originally posted by comet66
Around here we give the Sunstar Loader a real work out. It sure makes working alone a lot easier.
I betting that mine will get worked a lot too. Does the framework that is in front of the hood removable to allow access to the engine or does the hood just not open very far. That has been one thing I have been trying to figure out on mine. I have considered making the hood hinge at the upper seam and leave the lower sides attached to the inside brace. I am also trying to decide if a 18hp Magnum would be enough engine for it. I have a good running 18 hp magnum from a different Sunstar that I parted or I have a 20 hp magnum in pieces from this one. I also have a 25 hp Kohler Command that is suppose to run good but I have never heard it run. The 18 hp magnum just sounds like the easiest to install. Does anyone else have an opinion about this? Dan
Hi In my opnion, I would install a Kohler Command 20 or 25 hp engine in your Sunstar. They are a great engine if properly maintained. My 1920 has the Command engine in it, with 1,114hrs on the clock and still sounds like new. We picked up a fixer upper 1918 Ultima a few years ago and the Magnam engine has been nothing but trouble. Then again it had over 1300hrs. Dealers said the Command is a better engine with a longer life expectancy. Lots of Walkers out there pushing 2,000 -2500hrs on their Command engines. If your Magnam has/ or was rebuilt you should be fine, but after the trouble with the Magnam in my 1918, I am hesitant to buy another 1920/1918 with the Magnam engine. Go with the Command in my honest opnion. My Magnam engine kept throwing rods and it had a lot of Carberator work that needed to be done. Take Care Jason B

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comet66
I forgot to address the engine question, but I think the 18 would be plenty powerful enough. No matter what I try to do with the 20m in mine I reach the limits of the rig before the engine strains. In fact the only reason it comes off half throttle is for cooling purposes. But remember mine is self contained with the pump being driven off the front PTO. You will have to go to 4 ply tires though, and with the hyd. steering you can stay wide with the fronts.

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PeppyDan
quote:
Originally posted by comet66
I forgot to address the engine question, but I think the 18 would be plenty powerful enough. No matter what I try to do with the 20m in mine I reach the limits of the rig before the engine strains. In fact the only reason it comes off half throttle is for cooling purposes. But remember mine is self contained with the pump being driven off the front PTO. You will have to go to 4 ply tires though, and with the hyd. steering you can stay wide with the fronts.
Yeah, that's kinda what I thought too. I have a homemade Johnny Bucket that I have used heavily and the 20hp Magnum doesn't even notice it. How would it matter whether or not the pump was self contained or running off the front PTO? I'm still trying to decide what tires to put on the front tri-ribs or turfs. The turfs would be a lot easier on the lawn if I'm carrying a full load but the tri-ribs would be easier on the wear items in the front a would bite better. Dan

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comet66
I misunderstood, I thought you were going to drive it off the tractor hydro. Mine is self contained driven off the front PTO. I think the tri-ribs would sink into soft ground with a load on them. Besides that I've never checked into them, are they available in 4ply?

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PeppyDan
quote:
Originally posted by comet66
I misunderstood, I thought you were going to drive it off the tractor hydro. Mine is self contained driven off the front PTO. I think the tri-ribs would sink into soft ground with a load on them. Besides that I've never checked into them, are they available in 4ply?
I was thinking that too, so I will be going with turfs because it will be run though the grass often. Thanks for the input! Dan

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D-17_Dave
Notice the heavy duty rated tires used on the powermax tractors. They are made for the weight and stress of a front end loader. The rims and tire sidewall need to be rated at the max load your likely to have with the bucket full. If you notice the tire recommended for the loader tractors on a powermax it's somewhat of a rounded tire. If it sinks a little due to weight it will increase it's surface contact. If it's not loaded it rounds off and reduces the surface contact. Also the width of the tire will have everything to do with how well the tire floats across the turf without sinking in but even with power steering it will give you a workout with a wide tire.

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