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Sunstar Traction Questions


bluecap24

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While plowing tonight I got to thinking that I need some tri rib tires for extra traction. My question is has anyone converted the front tires on a sunstar from the rim/hub combination that is stock to a bolt on rim style. I see that fastpaul uses bar tires for front wheels. Is this better than tri ribs. I use this tractor for dirt plowing a lot and also mowing so I either want something I can change easy or is easy on the grass. Suggestions? Also would it work to put tubes in the rear tires and then fill them with fluid. I am really worried about ruining the tires or rims. I need to add weight somewhere cause it is a pig on ice. Sure do love the power steering and hydraulic blade though. Thanks in advance guys! Jim
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In my opinion, the tri-ribs are the absolute best steering tires made. Tucker Tire has 6.50x8 tri-ribs, which, I think are the size for the Sunstar. On my 713S, I use the narrower 4.00x8 tri-rib tires. It is easier to put the liquid in a tubeless tire. Just break the tire loose on one side, pour in all the fluid you can get, then re-seal the bead and air it up to correct pressure. Most people like the low temp windshield washer fluid. That is the cheapest solution.
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Interesting. I just tried my sunstar on snow for the first time. I'm not real happy with the traction. My 7018 does better. I put chains on and now I'll try it with weights. The best tractor for snowblowing I ever used was the 4041. For blowing snow it was incredible. Very anxious to see if the sunstar will have noticeably better traction with weights.
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Yeah, I think the center of gravity of these machines must be way forward on the tractor. Last year I put 23 8.50's on it with chains but only used it a couple of times. Ended up using the 914 with the blower. I contacted Tucker tire and they don't have a tri rib big enough for it. Do you think that a 4 x 8 would be strong enough to support the tractor? Since I haven't completely bought into the washer fluid theory I think I am going to try it on one of the many sets of 23 8.50's I have and put duals on the sunstar. I have a 54" blade that I got from an auction that I am going to fit onto the original A frame so I should be able to cover my tracks. I will post some pics when I get started. Jason: How much does your back weight weigh on your 1920? How is it connected to the tractor? Jim
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I don't know what you boys are doing but I plowed last night (1920) with turf tires. Too lazy to mount the lugs. PS just load the tires with ww fluid. If you spin put in the locking differential and away you go.
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Maybe Rod meant Miller Tire?: http://www.millertire.com/ Click on Front Tractor 16/6.50-8 Firestone 3-Rib Front Tractor $68.00
quote:
Originally posted by bluecap24
... I contacted Tucker tire and they don't have a tri rib big enough for it. Do you think that a 4 x 8 would be strong enough to support the tractor? ...
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Putting dual on will most likely make you spin easier because you'll have less lb/sq/in bitting into the snow. I'm with you on the fluid in the tires, iron is easier to bolt on and remove, my eyes are trained to zero in on piece of iron that have a dia close to 12 inches, and I ain't afraid to find and ask the owner:D. Been a few nice set made my guys here outta 25 lb dunb bell wts, oh is that bar bellB)
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Well I got some tinkering time today. I figured out how to attach my other blade. It is a 60" wide. It was pretty easy to adapt to the original mounting tabs on the blade. I just have to get some spacers to keep the blade centered. Works pretty good. The 60" blade seems to fit the tractor better. When it is angled all the way it still covers the front tire tracks where the stock one doesn't. I pulled the front wheel off to try the narrow rims. The sunstar is a 1" dia. spindle and the other rims are 5/8". So I had a set of hubs from a small trailer laying around and tried them. They have the right spindle diameter, but the distance between the bearings is larger. I could machine down the hubs to fit. Still in the planning stage with this. I found the tires at miller tire to fit my rims, but they are much more expensive than the smaller ones. six of one half dozen of the other. Would be nice to have front wheels that have lug bolts to change tires, but I'm on a tight budget. Plus I found out that the frontend needs to have the bushings replaced, kinda sloppy. (Next project) I called about "rim Guard" fluid for the tires and they quoted me 75 bucks for the pair. The fluid is 3 bucks a gallon plus labor. It weighs something like 11 lbs per gallon and is completely safe and non corrosive. Made with something from beets I guess. I have a plan to make a weight box to attach where my sleeve hitch mounts. I will get some pics tomorrow providing we don't get the 3" of ice they are calling for OO Thanks for your input guys.
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Hi To solve the traction problems reguarding my Agco Allis 1920H, for snow removal, I simply add rear weights and put chains on it, and it works like a charm! I have never used fluid in my 1920 yet or plan to. The chains help big time, since my 1920 does not have the locking differential unfortunately. Take Care Jason B
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Hey guys I changed the rears to 23x8.50's and put the 60" blade on. We got about 1/4 -3/8" of ice last night and today and it moved just fine through the ice. Which is good because I can hardly stand up outside. The plow went on pretty easy. I just had to make some spacers between the sunstar mounts and the blade mounts. I pulled the sleeve hitch lower frame off and am going to make a weight box for the rear. Here is a pic:


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That looks like a nice setup! Did you add any weight to the back? Is that an extra set of wheels/tires that you could add fluid to and then just change wheels for summer months? Dan
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I run the 26 x 12 x 12 turf's with 55# weights, and chains on both sides on my Ultima and have never had a traction problem with either the blade or the blower. It doesnt matter if I'm going up the hill or down the hill, she'll cut 3' drifts with little trouble. Now on ice I do have a little trouble steering.
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