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Simplicity 6216 user question


dhardin

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I need some advice, Just picked up a nice 6216 with a 48" deck and was wondering how the transmision works out. 4 gears with infinet speed adjustment in each gear. Dose it work as good as it sounds? The tractor i got had a engien fire and need rewired and going over, its not a bad fire, mostly wireing and just a little plastic in the stearing collum heat damage. Its a 16hp Briggs/twin that looks like it worh spending my time on. Also in the load of trators i got was a real nice (if there is such a thing) Troy Bult 20hp 46" with a sweet foot pedel control (not hydro but works like one) all it needs a hood. The hoods is completly distroyed and gone (to repclace it over $400). I was thinking id switch the 16Hp Briggs out of the Simplicty with this 20Hp Inteck/twin. For the most part it looks like a muffler issue/exchange is all. Plus i got a nice clean 14hp Kohler in a crapy Craftsmen/hydro with no deck. I have not had a good tractor halue like this in years, 2 runing tractors with big decks and a third with no deck but runs great. All for $175. Any one with experenc with a Simplicty 6216? Thanks Dan
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Hi - As long as the vari-a-drive is working correctly, it should be fine(I like'em) - for the engines as long as they fit and the 6216 pulley will fit on the shaft,(plus some wiring..maybe..)- I don't see why not.....Chris
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Hello Dan, My first 4 wheel simplicity was a 6216 bought off Ebay for $200 if I recall. That was about 5 years and 5 tractors ago. I've still got her, just using a hydro drive Soverign instead. The vari drive does not provide inifinite range in each gear, but does vary speed about 1/3 in each gear. Under the tractor you will find a drive belt from the engine to a 2 grove pully that hangs on a swinging arm with a second belt to the trans drive pully. there is also an idler pully on each belt. The center plate in that 2 grove pully (Variator Assembly) should be able to move back and forth to vary the drive ratio from front belt to rear. Things that go wrong are the center plate gets stuck, and or the pivots for the arm get stuck. When the clutch is depressed it pulls back the front idler and the front belt goes slack, the spring loaded rear idler pulls the rear belt tighter and this shifts the center plate over making the rear drive radius smaller (Low gear). As you let the clutch up, the front belt initially runs high on it's side of the pully. If the parts are all working correctly, after the clutch pedal is released it will gradually move towards you as the front belt overpowers the rear idler and digs deeper into it's grove. There is a lever on the console that limits the travel of the swinging arm, so you can limit or lock out the variable drive. With the vari drive set full on, you let up the clutch and the tractor starts out at a steady speed, and then over 4 or 5 seconds it accelerates quite a bit. If you then slowly depress the clutch or move the setting lever it will slow it back down. Also,if you are plowing, towing or just climbling a steep hill it will automatically down shift as the load goes up. The thing I loved about that tractor was how smooth the flat twin engine was when running well. My soverign with V-twin buzzes much more. Good luck with it.
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thanks guy for your input, great help. I have a lot of older Simplicyts and Allic's some total of 4 all much older and love the drive shafts in the horizontally shaft motors. But this tractor look well built and the newest Simplicty/Allis i have. It seems from looking at the manual this a staright forward shive pulley system in frount of a 4 speed gear box to me. And understand that the shivs have to be clean to move smoothly in and out. Yes i love the V-twins a lot, and better yet is the apposing twin for smooth running like is in my Onan generator. Im sure this will be the same. Im hoping i don't need to buy 2 new coils for this motor but it looks like that will be the case. That and redo some plastic connectors and wires that run to the front. I just dont need any more tractor is my problem and was going to cannibalize the Troy Bult and build up this Simpcity to maybe sell or do some trading with. Like the wife tells me all the time "What dos a guy need with 6 tractors 2 ZTRs for" And she don't know about the newest 3 i just got.
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Hi, these tractors work well. A couple of things about the variable speed. Do not oil the hub where the center flange moves back and forth. It will collect dirt and stick. If it gets rusty or sticky remove the belts and if it is sticky spray some carb or barke cleaner on and work it back and forth. If it has sat and got rusty, move the flange to one side and take a long strip of emery paper and polish it, then slide the flange over and polish the other half of the hub. If you need nla parts, this is basically the unit John Deere used and I have replaced the center flange with one from John Deere. Have fun with it. Al Eden
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Thanks Al, good info and I will take it from a man that knows his tractors. I have not been out to the farm shop much, to busy (something about setting up a Christmas tree) and to cold and slick right now. But from some Internet researching looks like the 16ph Briggs flat head Magnetron (1985) only has one coil (Good). And the funniest melted part is the plastic dipstick cover. I cant weight to get the shop cleared from the last project to get started. Thanks again guys.
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