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MunK

Could use some sage advice AC 620

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MunK
I purchased a AC 620/Loader (kwickway)last fall and so far I am both impressed and a little disappointed. I have done as many here advise and changed fluids, tuned, and basically gone over the basics and then worked with the tractor and now I have a lot of planned changes..any input would be appreciated. I need to rebuild the front axle badly..I have almost enough slop to get the tires pointed in two different directions. Having studied the dilemma it looks like the axle is most likely worn heavily from loader use. It strikes me that upgrading the axle to the heaviest available is prudent but where do I acquire one? (late model 720 apparently is what I am looking for)Also the power steering swap seems a brilliant plan and will be done at the same time. Any ideas here born of experience? I also need to build and install a separate HYD pump for the loader...using the tractors HYD's is not a great plan in my experience...and although the loader does work fine...I want it on it's own Hyd's. Do I "need" a pump similar to what is on the ARK loader design or can I use say a Howe stock car power steering pump as an example...looking for ideas here. I am forced to now use this tractor to clear snow (ugh) So I gave it a try with the loader...better than shoveling but not much. Whats the best snow removal plan for a gravel driveway (pea gravel size) A blower, a blade...front blade or rear?..or belly? I am in Nebraska so heavy snows are possible but not frequent so a blade seems maybe the more useful option, but I defer to those who have done this...I have a 7' Western blade off whats left of my plow truck...I could narrow it...(lighten it allot)build mounts to hook the blade to the loader...does this seem a ok idea or? The idea I could swap from loader to blade quickly is quite appealing...hence trying to avoid a blower. I spend a lot of time with my rear wheels off the ground, as the loader can lift much more than the tractor can handle apparently..So I am planning fluid in the rear tires (I am told about 400lbs worth)How much more weight could I hang off the 3 point yet and not overly strain the rear drive train with chains? By the end of this next summer I will have this thing built to plow the driveway, mow the lawn,loader use,and I would like either a plow for the rear 3 point or a tiller depending on finances... or maybe a another tractor...but thats a last resort. thanks for anything you can offer NoRM

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D-17_Dave
I have yet to see any loader on these tractors that does not have an extra pump for the loader as the tractors charge pump flow hydraulics would be disappointingly slow at the very best. Where does the lift plumb to the tractor? Is there a pump under the hood being ran off the front pto now or is it plumbed into the front remotes? Most of these loaders are fastened firmly enough to the tractor that swapping from a loader to another attachment is less than desirable so replacing the bucket with a blade might be a good solution. If you mount a blade to the bucket you'll be adding unneeded weight to the front. I can understand your front axle problem as this was a weak point on these tractors. If you rebuild it you should get several more years of service out of the tractor without the expense of wrecking another whole tractor just to get a front end. The power steering is certainly something to consider while the tractor is down for repairs. There are a few different ways to accomplish this. Some have done this by adding a pump and swapping the steering gearbox with one that has power steering built in it. The other is by replacing the hard connection with a rotary steering valve and cyl. I have done this and can vouch for it's ease of operation. Yet another is to swap in a steering booster control like used in several manufacturers tractors including some of the late model Simplicity's. I'm working on this type of upgrade now. I have some pics of my swap archived in the forums but I'm not sure you have access as a registered user. The rear end will take about as much as you can hang on the rear as long as you keep the drop housings serviced. Abuse from the loader will play a part in this. I would recommend investing in some wheel weights if leaving the weight on is what you want. This will remove most of the stress from the rear end except for the wear on the hydrostat from changing directions rapidly with all this weight in motion.

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MunK
Dave ty for the reply... The loader is in my opinion a bit cobbled. It's amazingly functional admittedly but still a mess. It's plumbed in to use the tractors lift/float levers...tapped into the rear HYD's with ball valves (very ghastly)With a few quick twists of the ball valves I can run the rear 3 point or the loader..which is not ideal but it works. But I am sure you can see why I want it changed to the loader being on it's own pump/controls. Power steering: I was thinking a ram... A Hydro spool off some implement that steers hydraulically and call it good. Except what to use for a pump....that I will have to research more. The range boxes are so far working ok and I did service them and saw no reasons to worry. And I would LOVE some wheel weights...where does one find some? (I am not in da tractor parts loop as of yet) Front axle: A rebuild would be my obvious option...I would never tear apart another tractor LOL... Not and miss the chance to have TWO ;-) But if sum one was parting one out.. I can pull the bucket off the loader in 5 min...so yes I was thinking of making the plow fit the loader in place of the bucket...just how to angle it was escapeing me but I am sure I can sort that out.. NoRM I really appreciate the thoughts here

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