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Newinhim

1st restoration, before pic's

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Newinhim
Here is a before picture of my first efforts at restoring a 68 Yeoman 616. I plan to spend this winter on the body and paint. Those with an eye for detail will notice the rear fender/seat pan is already painted, that is my learning/experimental piece.




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Newinhim
juggler2- How did you know it was a WH seat pan? The PO (who bought it new in the 60's) gave no indication that there were any replacement parts, and when I began the refinishing process, it looked nearly identical to the rest of the parts, in both color and condition. What should I look for to determine the originality of the rest of the parts? FYI, the engine is not original, but is a 7hp from another tractor with an electric start. Thanks

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msiebern
I think you are ok on your seat pan. They look similar, but if you look at the pics of the original Simplicity seat pan here, I think you can see the details match up. I am specifically looking at the 2 openings in the front of the seat pan. The seat shell itself is also very similar, although it is hard to see in the pic with the padding on it and a rider as well, but having seen them in the flesh, yours looks correct also. [url]http://www.simpletractors.com/images/spotlight/yeoman.jpg[/url]

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SimpleTom
Bill, Good luck on your restoration. It is a nice and easy model to restore. Not a whole bunch of little parts. By the way, The seat pan on your Yeoman is correct. You have the four bolt/mounting holes. The Wheelhorse pan mounts differently. Here is a picture of a 616 I used to own. I mounted the larger Broadmoor tires on the Yeoman rims. Also, If the starter on it is a 110 volt then the engine could still be original. That was an option on the 616.




Tom

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Newinhim
SimpleTom- That's a real beauty, I hope mine comes out half as nice! Did you have any trouble with a wobbly steering shaft on yours? I think I am missing a bushing/collar that goes around the shaft, and the steering is a little sloppy too.

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Newinhim
Cleaning the carb.....hmmm, where do I begin... It was a disgusting mess, covered in who knows how many years of grease, dust and shellaced over gasoline. I started out spraying it down with WD-40,(Mostly to get the parts moving again!)and some of the junk came off, but not a lot. I was cleaning the inside of the float bowl, and ran a wire wheel in there that fit real well, and it came out perfectly clean. I thought about doing the same on the outside, but was afraid I might ruin it, so I resorted to the tried and true technique of hot water and dish soap, and used a brillo pad on it. It wound up giving it that polished look without scratching or pitting the surface. I think I will leave it like it is, and not try to paint it black again.

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mooseman3210
very very nice start please keep us updated with lots of pictures and let us know how you are progressing .i like the hot water and dish soap idea i used a Brillo pad on all of my chrome stuff for the 410 it does a real good job on it . good luck and don't worry about the time it takes go at your own pace you be happy (and proud when your done . there might be night you go out side 2 or 3 times just to look at it .

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Newinhim
Mooseman, what do you mean "outside"? That baby is gonna be kept warm and dry whenever I finish it! (Havent told the wife yet, so dont let that out) BTW, your project is beautiful! As the winter wears on, I will continue to post more pictures. Thanks to all for the comments and encouragement.

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Newinhim
It actually works! My very first carb job, and it made the engine go! See the proof on you tube! http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FgDvlLab1lw As we all know, no good thing comes without a price. Once I cleaned out all of the "shmutz" in the metal gas tank, I realized that it was that very "shmutz" that was keeping the gas in the tank! It leaks kind of like a sieve from somewhere on the bottom, opposite the fuel outlet. Any ideas? I dont see any visible holes, or any eveidence of trauma. Could the gas be seeping through? The tank seems pretty solid, no real rust on the outside, but there was plenty inside.

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msiebern
quote:
Originally posted by Newinhim
...I realized that it was that very "shmutz" that was keeping the gas in the tank! It leaks kind of like a sieve from somewhere on the bottom, opposite the fuel outlet. Any ideas?
You might give this link a look, not the cheapest but very popular with hot rodders and cyclists. [url]http://www.por15.com/products.asp?dept=12[/url]

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Newinhim
After sandblasting, 3 coats of primer, 5 coats of paint, as I was applying the first coat of clear coat, a few small and separate areas of the hood bubbled up like they had paint stripper on them instead of clear coat! The hood had been inside the house (warm and dry) for 8 days after the last paint coat, and the clear coat had gone on without a hitch on another part. Any thoughts on where this failed, and better yet, how to repair/salvage all of the work done on the hood so far? I am not at all happy about this recent turn of events, but this is all new to me, so I guess it's a learning experience, I just dont know what I learned yet! Primer was rustoleum flat black, paint was rustoleum farm equipment (A/C orange), clear coat was dupli-color clear acrylic lacquer.

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UCD
Part of the problem I see is the mixing of brands. Color coat Rustoleum, Clear coat dupli-color clear acrylic lacquer. Also was the color coat enamel or Lacquer? You can not mix types of paint either.

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Newinhim
"Part of the problem I see is the mixing of brands. Color coat Rustoleum, Clear coat dupli-color clear acrylic lacquer. Also was the color coat enamel or Lacquer? You can not mix types of paint either." Color coat was a heavy duty enamel. I guess it's fair to say that the lesson learned here is to stay with one brand and type of product throughout the entire job? The thing that still bugs me is that it only failed in a few samll areas. What do I do now? Is it back to the start (Sandblast cabinet)or is there some wat to salvage the hood?

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