natew21279 Posted June 24, 2008 Posted June 24, 2008 I was wondering if anyone has changed an old cast briggs ignition system with a newer type? I didn't know if it would be possible id like to do away with the points and condenser on my 7016.
BLT Posted June 24, 2008 Posted June 24, 2008 You need to have your magneto (flywheel) re-polarized of which Briggs will do that no-charge. All you have to do is get it to the factory prepaid freight. The you'll need (purchase) the 'Magnetron' ignition coil to complete the conversion. Briggs will send back the magneto freight prepaid to you. You can do some look-ups on Magnetron and there have been a humongous amount of words typed about it.
natew21279 Posted June 24, 2008 Author Posted June 24, 2008 Do they do that for timing? Similar to the offset keys and adjustable aluminium flywheels on racing engines?
natew21279 Posted June 24, 2008 Author Posted June 24, 2008 I guess my question is can this be milled out and replaced with similar timing?
Roy Posted June 24, 2008 Posted June 24, 2008 You could also use a generic electronic ignition module (Mega-Fire?). They work fine and there is no need to have the flywheel re-polarized. Just a thought.
natew21279 Posted June 24, 2008 Author Posted June 24, 2008 Thanks any links where i could check them out?
Roy Posted June 24, 2008 Posted June 24, 2008 Do a Google search for "Mega-Fire ignition module". Will turn up lots of sources. They are also frequently on E-bay.
BigSix Posted June 25, 2008 Posted June 25, 2008 Not to hijack this thread (apologies to the O.P.) but does anything change if the engine is an aluminum B&S? I have a 5 hp., horizontal shaft B&S on my wood splitter, circa 1981 (Sears) and the points plunger had sort of seized, previously. I worked it up and down and the thing ran fine for a year, but now, again, no sparky. I beat the plunger up pretty bad the first time, getting it free. So....: Are the aluminum block Briggs as easily convertible to electronic ignition as the cast iron blocks? Thanks.
BLT Posted June 25, 2008 Posted June 25, 2008 quote:Originally posted by BigSix So....: Are the aluminum block Briggs as easily convertible to electronic ignition as the cast iron blocks? Thanks. Easier, magneto does not have to be repolarized. Just plug plunger hole and get either Magnetron or MegaFire.
natew21279 Posted June 25, 2008 Author Posted June 25, 2008 does the mega fire seem to be dependable I have done a little reserch and heard good and bad wondering if anyone has had one on an old 16hp for a while?
BLT Posted June 25, 2008 Posted June 25, 2008 I have one (Mega-Fire) on a 7010 tractor for around 15 years and not a problem. Mine is wired thru the points so you get get the true four stroke cycle when it has to do with the plug firing. Prior to that my 10 HP Briggs would back fire at times when I wired it to the instructions supplied.
BigSix Posted June 27, 2008 Posted June 27, 2008 BLT: Thank you for this: quote:Easier, magneto does not have to be repolarized. Just plug plunger hole and get either Magnetron or MegaFire. Is there a kit to plug the plunger hole? If my plunger is bad, can I PM you, re: this process, or would you prefer I start a new thread? Thanks again, Peter
Brucep Posted June 27, 2008 Posted June 27, 2008 I have a 1978 year 7016 with a Briggs and all the info I could find when I wanted to do this said that they didn't make an electonic ignition to work on my model number engine.
BLT Posted June 28, 2008 Posted June 28, 2008 quote:Originally posted by BigSix BLT: Thank you for this: Is there a kit to plug the plunger hole? If my plunger is bad, can I PM you, re: this process, or would you prefer I start a new thread? Thanks again, Peter There is no kit that I know of, but if oil is not leaking thru plunger now, just disconnect wiring from points connect to Mega Fire per the instructions and let it run with disconnected points in place. I don't know if Briggs sells Magnetron conversion kits as there electronic engines have been out for over 20 years.
BLT Posted June 28, 2008 Posted June 28, 2008 quote:Originally posted by Brucep I have a 1978 year 7016 with a Briggs and all the info I could find when I wanted to do this said that they didn't make an electonic ignition to work on my model number engine. I think Briggs put a service bulletin out twenty some years ago about it and over the years it has "morfed" into a common knowledge type subject. I have two CI engines awaiting their conversion, but the points are still doing their job. And if it isn't broke don't fix it.8D8D
BigSix Posted June 28, 2008 Posted June 28, 2008 BLT: Re: quote:There is no kit that I know of, but if oil is not leaking thru plunger now, just disconnect wiring from points connect to Mega Fire per the instructions and let it run with disconnected points in place. I don't know if Briggs sells Magnetron conversion kits as there electronic engines have been out for over 20 years. Good point! I'll just leave the plunger alone, if I can't make it work. I'm still unclear about what kit I need, but don't bother writing more now--if I'm going to go the conversion route, I'll post the engine number, after I sit down with my B&S Repairman's Manual, and get serious about this. If I can get it running again with the points, I'll do that first. But it's good to know there are options--thanks again! Peter
DanD Posted June 28, 2008 Posted June 28, 2008 I put one of the megafire ignition modules on the 16 hp Briggs in my 7016. I was not real pleased. The engine ran fine at slow speeds, but started to miss severely at high RPM. Finally just replaced the point plunger and bushing and rubber seal to keep oil off the points and went back to the points and it runs perfectly at all RPM. Here's a video of it running shortly after I went back to the points system. [url][/url]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Pg2Gmq2EjLA
nerdx86 Posted June 28, 2008 Posted June 28, 2008 I have seen drawings (on this site, if I remember correctly) of how to rewire the system to use the battery instead of the magneto. I also see that quite a few people are using electronic ignition modules instead of the points. Has anyone successfully constructed an electronic, battery based ignition system for one of these tractors? I have a little electronic background and am tempted to try it.. Any advise before I make myself look really stupid? LOL Obviously I would have to get a hall effect, proximity, or similar sensor that could read the position of the points plunger (and an ignition module that supports it or build my own).
aokpops Posted June 29, 2008 Posted June 29, 2008 just did this on a short block. the new block there was no hole for the plunger. ask about the fly wheel no problem .just had to buy a new coil a little pricy .
aokpops Posted June 29, 2008 Posted June 29, 2008 Dan they told me to get the air gap on the coil at 10 thous .if not set right it will change the timming .
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