Roy Posted June 24, 2008 Posted June 24, 2008 Finally making some progress on the 3212V. Rebuilt BGB installed. Blame it on CRS if I posted this one before. Dash tower and battery/tank support. Note the felt pads for the gas tank and hood. :) New ammeter and steering bushing. Tunnel cover weld repair. Star lock washer is for the choke cable. Now if I can only find the retaining nut I lost tonight. :( Had to "egg" out the choke mounting hole for clearance with respect to the batter/tank support. Original choke cable has a worn spot from rubbing the support. Need to find a new choke cable. The original was kinked by the PO and is very difficult to operate. All now, more later.
Simpleton7016 Posted June 24, 2008 Posted June 24, 2008 yowsers! Nice work! Why doesn't my paint ever turn out like that!!
MPH Posted June 24, 2008 Posted June 24, 2008 Nice going Roy. Rhis gonna be a show tractor or you gonna get it dirty?
firefoxz1 Posted June 25, 2008 Posted June 25, 2008 Coming along good RoydOd. My choke cable rubs or rides against the battery support also. I was not going to worry about that. I too need to find a new cable because mine is to short, must have broke off and been rebent.
B-16_IC Posted June 25, 2008 Posted June 25, 2008 Looking good! Ain't progress great? Not that I would know.B)
Roy Posted June 26, 2008 Author Posted June 26, 2008 Update: The good and the bad. The good. Found a suitable choke cable stashed in the rafters in the basement garage/shop. Had to shorten it 3" or 4" and put a new "Z" in the end but it works fine. Also installed the throttle cable, a missing governor spring, and freed up the throttle shaft. The bad. Discovered the gas tank has a significant rusty spot beneath the fill hole. Will have to do something about that. Question. What is being used to route the gas line through the hole in the bulkhead. Ref: Hole in lower LH corner of bulkhead in picture below. Is there a bulkhead fitting or does everyone just use a short piece of steel or copper tubing to go through the hole? Re: Above responses. Pictures seem to make a paint job look better than than it actually is. Won't be a show tractor. I use mine. Plus I hate to paint. Progress is slow but I'm gaining on it. Thanks all.
ZippoVarga Posted June 27, 2008 Posted June 27, 2008 Roy, The gas line is a tight fit through the hole and it stays stationary in my old 3212V. I suppose if one wanted they could use 1/4 inch copper tubing and splice onto the gas lines on either side and find a rubber gromet to put through the hole to isolate vibration against the copper line. My 3212V has been finished since October and is used almost daly by it's new owner and there is no wear on the gas line at all where it goes through the hole. I just made sure there was enough slack (extra hose) so that it rests through the hole instead of being taught. Seems to work ok. Looking great!
KenK Posted June 27, 2008 Posted June 27, 2008 The gas line goes on the outside of the frame that we are looking at. There is a cutout on the side panel when installed that the hose runs through.
Roy Posted June 27, 2008 Author Posted June 27, 2008 Sean, Thanks for the reply. Ken, Ah ha, that is what the slot is for. :) Thanks for the help.
MPH Posted June 27, 2008 Posted June 27, 2008 Looking good Roy. Where are you gonna put your gas line shut off?
Roy Posted July 10, 2008 Author Posted July 10, 2008 Update: Have the battery and gas tank installed. Fuel line with filter and shutoff valve. Awaiting receipt of an oil seal and thrust washers for the rear axle and differential. Will have tractor on it's wheels once the parts arrive. Getting close to firing up the engine. All now,
richp Posted July 11, 2008 Posted July 11, 2008 Cool sticker on the battery. Should get one for my 9020.
Killer_A-C Posted July 11, 2008 Posted July 11, 2008 Looking good Roy. If you look close that is a original Simplicity battery.
Roy Posted July 11, 2008 Author Posted July 11, 2008 The battery was OEM on my 2000 Sovereign purchased in September 99. Has three bad cells but lasted until late last year. Will have to buy a new battery when the time comes. It does look cool. :)
firefoxz1 Posted July 12, 2008 Posted July 12, 2008 Coming along just fine. Hopefully your nest post will be that it is running:)
Roy Posted July 14, 2008 Author Posted July 14, 2008 Update: Finally got the parts needed to reassemble the rear axle and differential. Had to install a new RH axle tube seal and a couple of new thrust washers. My thanks to Brenda at SLI for the thrust washers. Differential: Rod's innovative LH hub. He made it from a taperlock bushing and a piece of square flat plate. The square plate would have worked fine but offended my sense of "rightness" so I turned it round. :) Plan is to put the tractor on its feet tomorrow and see if it will run without a carburetor rebuild. More later.
firefoxz1 Posted July 15, 2008 Posted July 15, 2008 Going to have studs and nuts instead of the standard stud bolts, I like8D:). Keep us posted on the progressOO.
HubbardRA Posted July 15, 2008 Posted July 15, 2008 The studs were another feature of the parts I sent Roy. I always had studs on my tractors when I was tractor pulling. Much easier to remove and replace the wheels, plus a set of chrome acorn lug nuts looks real good on them. I came up with the hub design out of necessity. We were practicing for a pull one day when my son popped the clutch and shattered the left hub. I put together this "zero clearance" design to prevent breaking another one. Fortunately Simplicity fixed the problem on later models by welding the hub on. I now have the late model diffs and axles on all my tractors. I'm glad that Roy could use my old parts.
Roy Posted July 15, 2008 Author Posted July 15, 2008 "old parts" can come in very handy. Thank you Rod. :) Rats, I'm going to have to go through the carburetor. Thought I might get away without it but no such luck. To be continued.
Roy Posted July 16, 2008 Author Posted July 16, 2008 The good news: Engine runs fine and the generator charges as it should. :) The bad news: Transmission is hung in 2nd gear. :( Time to try/learn the "bent screwdriver" trick. Now I know why there is a new shift rail in one of the parts boxes. The saga continues.
Roy Posted July 16, 2008 Author Posted July 16, 2008 Could use some help before I split the transmission which I really don't want to do. Looking through the fill hole on the transmission it appears that the roll pins that form the shift/neutral gate are OK and the 1-3 shift fork is aligned with the roll pin neutral gate. Logically, all that would be required is to move the 2-R shift fork out of 2nd gear but for some reason it won't budge. Any ideas I can try before resorting to removing the transmission and opening it up??????????????? Thanks,
HubbardRA Posted July 16, 2008 Posted July 16, 2008 Roy, did you try shifting with the engine running? In other words, driving it a little to loosen things up, then shifting. The top of the tranny only gets greased when the tranny is turning.
Roy Posted July 16, 2008 Author Posted July 16, 2008 Rod, that's when it got hung in 2nd. Didn't feel right when it went in. Took a spin around the yard and tried several times to get it to shift out. No such luck.
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