BrianP Posted July 1, 2008 Posted July 1, 2008 Greetings all, Due to some unforeseen family issues, I’ve been otherwise occupied of late, but I am still working on my 3410. As a recap, I have the same poor-running problem as Isleblue65 (7016 problem beyond my capabilities), which I detailed in my “Is there a carb doctor in the house” thread of over a year ago. Basically the darned thing will not rev above an idle and misses and back-fires like crazy. Also the carburetor leaks gas all over the place... including a brand new carb I bought in a fit of frustration. I pulled the plug and it was covered with soot after only trial running the machine in place. This will be my final hurrah for this engine, but you can’t say I didn’t pull out all the stops in trying to fix the darned thing. Here’s a couple of shots of where things stand at the moment. As you can see, what I've got is a giant engine "kit" waiting to be assembled. I'd probably have it up and running already, but there's this little anal-retentive thing going on that I have to deal with. I figured since I had the whole thing apart, I might as well do a little cosmetic upgrade at the same time. Besides, this gave me something to do while I waited for the machine shop to give me my block back. I figure I'm into it for at least 6 wire wheels worth of effort, as well as 4 cans of VHT paint from Advance Auto. The block has been bored to the next size piston (also purchased) and the valve guides knurled to accept the brand-new valves. Oh my aching wallet!:O I'll post more pictures later this week as work progresses. I'm assembling this evenings after work, so it may take a while.
IronPony Posted July 1, 2008 Posted July 1, 2008 That must be one of those rare engines that came with the AF/FM radio option;) Dan aka IronPony
BrianP Posted July 1, 2008 Author Posted July 1, 2008 It came with an iPod option too, hiding behind the muffler!:D Actually I made some real progress tonight, but could use a bit of advise concerning the bearings. Here's a shot of the new one: I'm not sure if it makes a difference, but the old one was sealed on one side as shown here: So now I'm baffled... did I install the old one (sealed side towards connecting rod) wrong the last time? Does the difference between the two matter as far as lubrication? My manual tells me the bearing is a "press fit" onto the crank. I pulled the old one off with a puller, and it came off pretty easy. I must have damaged it (or it was on it's way out), since I felt grinding when I gave the bearing a spin. But the manual tells me to heat the new one in oil to install it. So, how the heck do you heat one of these in oil?:O Not only that, but how much heat would be too much? If anybody can shed some light on this it'll sure help out.
ZippoVarga Posted July 1, 2008 Posted July 1, 2008 You can't over heat the bearing in oil. If you can get away with it, use vegetable oil on the stove and heat it until a tiny drop of water crackles in it. Then, using tongs, put the bearing in the oil and remove the pan from the stove. Take it to your shop and slip the bearing on the crank shaft. To futher increase your chances of getting the bearing on more easily, place the crank in the freezer for about an hour before you plan on assembly. This shrinks the crank a little, making it easier to get the bearing on. As far as the new and old bearing and one with a seal and the other without, I'm not sure of your engine so I can't make an educated guess. Have you got the mechanics manual for Briggs engines? It should tell you. Or, call the machine shop who did the work and ask the tech there. Good luck and I hope this is the end all to your troubles.
D-17_Dave Posted July 1, 2008 Posted July 1, 2008 I don't recall the bearings I've seen having any seal. But as John said, I'd consult the Briggs Bible to be certain. I do see one thing though. Unless there is a secound hole the oild hole in the breaing plate should go up so the oil goes into the bearing from the top.
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