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3212V Hinged Hood


Roy

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Posted
Always thought bolt-on tractor hoods were stupid and aggravating to remove when access to the engine, gas tank, or battery is needed. Much simpler to just raise the hood like on the B-1, 700, 725, etc. So, after kicking the idea around with Rod Hubbard a while and doing some thinking I modified my tractor to have a hinged hood. Open:




Closed:




Halfway:


Gas cap centered:


Still have a little finish work to do but the basic job is complete. I like it. :)
plastikosmd
Posted
amen...now why the h*ll didnt i think of that
Posted
Good thinking... I agree! What did you use for hinges? How did you determine exactly where to mount them?
Posted
looks good, but you better wear ear plugs. Looks like it's going to rattle a lot. Nice work though
Posted
I did that on the hood for my son's 64 Landlord when he first got it. All we used were a couple pieces of flatbar. I think it was 3/4 by 1/8 thick. Length between hole is not too critical, but needs to be somewhere around 5 or 6 inches. Mount the hinge to the grille, position the hood where it should be, then mark and drill the holes in the hood by swinging the hinge up and just marking through the hole. The hood on my son's Landlord does not rattle at all, and we did nothing extra to try and prevent it. You can put bolts in the original rear holes with a nut against the inside of the hood to use as a locking pin. Then make a bracket with a slot to fit inside with a slot for the pin to drop in. The hinge can then be setup with the grille pivot hole higher than the hood mount hole. This way the hinge will swing past center and pull forward against the pins in the slots and make the hood sit very tightly just from its own weight.
Posted
Looks good for two retired guys.:D When I did my 64 LL I pretty much just copied the 725, seems to work good also.
Posted
Made the hinge links by welding a stud to a piece of 3/16 x 1 1/4 flat bar. The welded stud is in the original front bolt holes. Located the hood holes sort of along the lines Rod described. If rattling is a problem I will do something along the lines Rod described but don't think it will be needed. Hood sits is place pretty solid. Did put some clear door edge guard on top of the grill uprights to pad between them and the hood. As Marty did the design is pretty much a copy of the original B-1, 700, 725, etc. Another example of a good early model feature that got dropped along the way.
Posted
That would have come in real handy with my B-10 that "had" a bas...a bas...crap....a bogus tank on it. Sometimes certain words just fit ya know? Any how, the bas...the Bogus tanks gas hole...(hehe, I said gas hole) was in the wrong place and the hood had to come off every time I filled the...other tank. I say Great Job!!
Posted
Roy, I like your idea. It's much better than the previous owner's hack job on my HB-212.


Posted
Ran the tractor today. No hood rattle. Life is good. :)
Posted
thats pretty slick...8D. but jeez, i dont think i have had to take my hood of my landlord 2010 for anything other than doing my upgrades{lights & hydro lift}. come on guys, there's no need to open the hood when your running a fine tuned briggs engine ;).....sm01
Posted
I like a lot8D. I may copy this myself at a later date.
Posted
how come i see people put the lights upsidedown like that!? or are they stock like that? Mike
Posted
"there's no need to open the hood when your running a fine tuned briggs engine." Unless you have a bad battery or want to hook up a trickle charger.Think a bolt-on hood is a dumb idea. :( I inverted the lights because I don't care for the "bug eyed" look. Much prefer the "lowboy" look. :D Also gets the LH light away from the muffler. Low mounted lights won't bother me since I never need a snowblower and don't plan to do dozer blade work at night. Thanks all,
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