BGB Drive Pulley Question

[laytonlight]

Sorry about the lousy picture, but it will serve to ask this question. The nut that holds it on, is that "torqued" down very hard? If so, how do you keep the BGB from turning when you back it off? I did a search and couldn't come up with anything that explained that. Also, is that nut 1 1/8"? As always, your help is invaluable and appreciated!

[Willy]

I use a impact wench and it comes right off.

[Chris727]

I believe it is either 40 ft-lb or 60 ft-lb, not certain. When I need to retorque the nut I put a long screwdriver between the engine to driveshaft spacers, then it will prevent the driveshaft from rotating when the handle hits the frame.

[rsnik]

I have a 2010 and am curious as to why you are removing the nut on the transmission drive pulley. Have you found key wallowed pulleys? I did. Do you have play from side to side on the shaft with the pulleys on it? I did. When you grab ahold of both pulleys on either side of the bevel gear box and rock them back and forth against the gear from the drive shaft do you get a big "ker-chunch, ker-chunck" play action? I did. If you are having any of this happen it's bevel gear box issues. These are all fixable. Worst comes to worst you can replace the entire bevel gear box. Here is a picture of me working on doing that on Saturday:

Mine was a worst case scenario. I ended up having to replace the bevel gear box. It's not that hard. Getting the pulleys off the bevel gear box is about the worst of it.

[laytonlight]

I'm borrowing the pulley from the 2010 that I just bought to put on the mutt that I'm using now to cut the grass. I did a post previously on problems with the drive on that one. I'm going to get through the rest of the summer using the mutt and I'm going to "rehab" the new 2010 over the winter. I'm not going to completely rebuild it, but I'm going to replace seals, bearings, etc & do some touch up paintng on the new one. I posted pics of it in the "Show & Tell" section. Thanks everyone for the help.

[rsnik]

Hi Layton, Yep, I saw your 2010 in Show and Tell. Turns out it was recently owned by member "goatfarmer" who, at 3741 posts, well, to call him a club "Graybeard" is like saying Noah predicted rain. You have accidentally bought a 2010 with a previous owner like buying a Mustang previously owned by Carroll Shelby.

[laytonlight]

I had no idea of the heritage, but, mechanically it does seems to be in almost "too good of shape" for a 42 year old machine, if something like that's possible! If you've seen pictures of my Mutt you know that it's just the opposite. Guess I won't be buying any lottery tickets as I probably used up my current allotment of good luck on this purchase. As far as the nut I mentioned above, I used the method Chris mentioned and backed the nut off ok and got the parts borrowed from the new 2010 to keep the Mutt cutting grass until the fall. The next project wil be tearing down and rehabbing the snowblower. I have a long, steep drive, and as wet as the summer has been here in Missouri, I may need it this winter. Thanks for the info on the good breeding of my 2010.

[goatfarmer]

I wish I could take credit for the accolades Jonathon mentions :D, but I only owned it about 6 months or so. A young member from Illinois (whose name escapes me at the moment) had it a long time before me. I got it on trade, along with another older Broadmoor, for this tractor.

He wanted the white dash Broadmoor above, and offered the 2010, and black dash BroadMoor for it.

[dentwizz]

My 2010 is jealous:O:D