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JDSnyder

Gasoline drip

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JDSnyder
My Landlord 101 with a 10 hp Briggs drips fuel out the bottom of the updraft carburetor. I have have tried adjusting the float to stop what I thought was overflow out of the bowl, but then the engine wouldn't start. How sensitive is the float adjustment and do any of you with experience have any recommendations on how to set it. The instructions with the carb kit said to set it "horizontal" with the top plate. Or, am I overlooking something else that is the cause of the leak? The float doesn't seem to be leaking or be gaslogged. Thanks for any help.

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Sandy_Lake_Imp
I've had the same problem with those carbs many times. I got to the point where I just install a fuel shut off in the fuel line. Funny thing is, half the time after the fuel shut off is installed the leak stops by itself. Go figure...... If you want to fix it right, there are quite a few threads in this forum about the fix. Do a "Search." Below is a link to "Precise Engine Repair" with a nice step-by-step addressing the problem.[A href='http://www.perr.com/tip9.html']http://www.perr.com/tip9.html[/a]

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Yeoman627
Hi - It's interesting to see your question - I experienced a similar problem with the carburetor on my 8HP 738 Broadmoor which I just recently solved. I tried several solutions including: replacing the needle, adjusting the float level (parallel as you described), replacing the float (suspecting that is was not 'air-tight' and contained gas which effected the float buoyancy), replacing the fuel lines and filters (in case contaniments entered the carburetor and prevented the needle from shutting-off the fuel supply. Even after all those attempts, the condition persisted. Finally, I replaced the carburetor body with another one I had around, and the problem went away. I think the 'seat' was somehow distorted. Is the needle Viton-tipped, or aluminum with rubber seal ? Mine was Viton-tipped. It would be interesting to know if the Viton-tipped set-ups are more prone to this problem. As far as just replacing the seat, I was not able to try that because a replacement seat was not part of the rebuild kit I bought. I read in the B&S manual that the seat can be removed by pulling it out with the right-size self-tapping screw. I will attempt that when I find a replacement seat insert. Also, perhaps there is a tool that can 'refinish' the seat. Anyway, good luck !!! Regards, TK

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Guest
Had the same poroblem w/ a 7016. I tried all the ways I knew to stop the leak and finally gave up and asked a knowledgable dealer. Turns out there's a teeny teflon gasket that sets and seals the 1st. step near the top of the long main jet. Its easy to miss cause its about this size "0" . I replaced it and the leak stopped. Perhaps a small smear [and I mean small] of sealant would do it.

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Eddie
Normally when that problem occurs it comes from a worn needle and that is what shuts off the fuel. When it wears it will feel like a rubbery tip and the edges will be worn and thats when all the gas starts to seep through. I've fixed this problem before on a 1964 Squire tractor 10 hp. It also has an up draft carb. on it as well as yours. If i were you I would get a carb kit and put a knew float in and a knew needle then see if your gas leaks from the carb. The needle is very important, make sure when you install it that you don't break the tip of it. I would also get some carb and choke cleaner and clean the low and high speed, then re assemble it. Those may be your main problems, good luck, i know you must be in a hurry to get it fixed because of spring, it's here finally, i don't know about you but i am ready for the summer, well good luck hope my imformation wasen't to hard to follow.

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stevejj56
If you decide to use a self taping screw to pull the seat,make sure its long enough to completely pull it out. I use a bolt or piece of round stock to stick in the fuel inlet hole so the end of the screw don't hit the inside of the carb body. The first one I pulled out,I cracked the carb body. Just some words of experience. Steve J.

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dlcentral
Perc. tube [long brass rod]inside carb possibly leaking.Fix is;to try and get out the tube without ruining it and carb in the process.Get a new tube and put small amt. of permatex sealer on the sealing surface approx 1/2 way up the tube as well as cleaning out the sealing surface inside the carb. with a Q-tip and some carb. cleaner.Also with float out immerse it in warm water and check for air bubbles[leaks] Hope this helps.

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TomF
Jeff, my experience would agree with Dave's latest post. See my message posted #2676. If you have removed the nozzle (the long brass tube that shoots up through the carb body) there's a good chance it's not reseating properly. I learned this from other members here. If you read my message #2676, you will see how we fixed the problem. I tended to go for the solution that did not introduce new washers or sealants that were not designed to be in there from the beginning. Please let us know how you make out. Tom

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