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Anybody use POR-15 on wheels?


OrangeMetalGuy

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OrangeMetalGuy
I like the POR-15 product, and I'm wondering how well it would work on wheels. I'm sure it'll protect them, but as it's brushed-on would it self-level enough to end up with a smooth (i.e., brushmark-free) finish ready for a topcoat?
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I have never used por-15, are you talking about their frame paint? I have used rattle can engine enamel for many motorcycles with real good results both in look, feel, and durability.
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quote:
Originally posted by OrangeMetalGuy
I like the POR-15 product, and I'm wondering how well it would work on wheels. I'm sure it'll protect them, but as it's brushed-on would it self-level enough to end up with a smooth (i.e., brushmark-free) finish ready for a topcoat?
Haven't tried the POR-15 either, but I did some brush touchup on my Power Trac with those sponge, disposable brushes. With a little bit of care on the overlap of the strokes, it came out just as smooth as if I'd sprayed it -- and a whole lot thicker coat... Sometimes I think about 95% of a rattle can is propellant and thinner, with only 5% being paint...
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I used POR-15 on the under side of a mower housing. I painted the whole thing spindle housing and all. I ended up having to rebuild the spindle housings and had to use a hammer to remove them because the POR-15 held so tightly. I have used it on rusty metal with success. I'm not sure about the brush marks though. I think it will break down in the sun and it needs a top coat. jh
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OrangeMetalGuy
Yeah, I know it needs a topcoat and plan to topcoat the wheels white gloss. But I am just wondering if it levels out to a smooth coating, which is what I need of course for wheels.
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quote:
Originally posted by Kent Sometimes I think about 95% of a rattle can is propellant and thinner, with only 5% being paint...
I guess it depends on how its applied and dried. I do 3 - 5 coats of paint then 2 coats of clear. Let it fully cure for 7 days and you have one tough good looking finish. Has held up to gas spills, brake fluid, and oil.
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If you are trying to cover up rust pitting, body putty works well on wheels. I have used it a couple times to make either rusted, or welded areas look like new. Haven't had any problems with the putty flaking off yet.
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I use POR-15 alot.. Probably 25-30 gallons so far. The finish will all depend on what your substrate looks like. POR-15 is very thick, and will fill most light rusty pitting.. and self-level real well. IF you need to thin it- use Urethane Reducer ONLY! I have used it on (car) wheels, but not typically on the outer visible part. Just the insides and backside. The part that shows gets epoxy-primer and finish. I paint all my resto frames and suspension parts with it. Since you plan on topcoating with another color...Be SURE to at least spray a primer coat over the POR-15 within 24 hours. If you wait longer, the POR-15 will require scuffing to get anything to stick to it.
[img]http://www.ncsdc.com/TEMP/Frame.jpg[/img]
Ray
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OrangeMetalGuy
Nice early 70's Chevy/GMC frame sm01 Yeah maybe I will just prime and paint the wheels. Might be a simpler solution for that application.
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