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Pulling tractor out of AC 900 series


ardisam

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What are the rules that you will be pulling under? The rules will tell you what is and is not allowed. What you do to the tractor depends on what class you are going to pull in. When I was pulling with SVTPA, they were running 13 different classes at each pull. They would allow an individual tractor to compete in no more than two classes, and a tractor could only pull once in each class.
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The next big question after "What are the rules?", is - "How much money are you willing to spend?" A stock 900 Allis will be competetive in a stock class, and is quite durable as is, if in good shape now. Weight brackets, front and rear are going to be needed to make different weight classes, and to allow for moving weight for optimum balance. Typical clubs run anywhere from a 900lb class, up to 1250lb classes for garden tractor. Some do run lighter, but usually are limited as to horsepower. Many clubs would also require wheelie bars that can adequately support the weight of the tractor. An adjustable drawbar (hitch) too - many clubs run a 13" drawbar height. That is a few inches higher than a stock hitch. As things progress away from truly stock, be prepared for more safety items - kill switch, shielding, fire extinguisher on board etc.. Check out the NGTPA for some real built stuff, and see Midwest Super Cub for you Kohler wish list. We really need to know the rules and your goals of spending to help out anymore. Tim


7016 6 speed, minus the lo range stuff, with 16hp cast iron Briggs - ran what was called a Stock Altered class - wasn't for tractors used on the lawn anymore, but still had to have stock cams and stock carbs. Pic is from about 8 years ago.
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You can go to SVTPA.com and read the 2008/2009 Rules to see what the requirements are in the organization that I helped start (over 25 years ago), and pulled with for over 20 years.
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Here is a not so good picture of our 61 Wards (Simp 700) that was taken at a tractor pull a few years back. The tractor had been weighed in for the class and was parked awaiting the signal to line the tractors up in pulling order. It looks to be weighted for the 1000 lb class, since this tractor was also driven by my son Randy in the 900 lb class. At this time it has a 12 Hp Kohler engine from a Cub Cadet in it. You will also notice the Nankang 23x10.5x12 rear tires mounted on wheels that are also 10 1/2 inches wide. This tractor has an adjustable height rear hitch so that we could set the 13 inch height regardless of weight of the tractor and air pressure in the tires. This tractor also has a deadman type foot pedal that works with the governor at the 3600 rpm setting required for a stock engine. There are many things that were changed on this tractor to make it legal for the stock tractor class. There were also a few illegal items that were never found.:D


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Simpleton7016
Rod, when I visited with you and John last year, you told us a great story about traction. I don't know if it is a "secret weapon" and I sure don't want to give away trade secrets, but it was an ingenious technique you used to maximize your traction. It had to do with driving the tractor up on a thick pane of glass to judge the tire pressure needed so that the maximum amount of tread was in contact with the earth. I think that was a great tip and one I think any "puller" might learn from. Reminds me a lot of the "old days" of Winston Cup and before when folks used to find ways to beat the system. I remember reading about how racers were limited in how large a gas tank could be, so they would weld up the frames and use them as "gas lines". Another that sticks with me was a story of a racer who changed the rotation of his engine so that he could use the torque to his advantage on a circle track etc. I may have some of the details wrong, but I know there are "tricks of the trade" that I (and others) find fascinating.
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Yes, it was a 6 speed. I got rid of the lo range stuff - extra weight that wasn't useful. Lo range might be OK for a truly stock tractor, but mine isn't. I mainly used 2nd gear, but would change the trans pulley for use with the 26" tires. The 6 speed tractors have a significantly better clutch system than the factory plain 3 speed gear drives - the idler pulls the belt up into the V pullies, instead of out of them like a variable speed or 3 speed does. Hard to explain, easy to see with 2 tractors side by side. I put on 2 factory clutch springs, and used the same belts for more than 3 full seasons of pulling. Still on the tractor, just don't get out much anymore. Tim
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Ryan, I see you are from Eau Claire, WI. Your 912 would make a great tractor for Hook n' Go's pure stock class. Here are the web sites for local pulling clubs. www.hookngopullers.com www.gsgtp.com - gopher state pullers do many pulls in western wisconsin. www.dgtp.org - dairyland pullers pull mostly north and west of Eau Claire. Ideal tractor would be a 912 - 6 speed. Or convert one of your 917s to a 6 or 3 speed. Here is my daughter taking 1st place 3 years ago at Boyceville, WI with our 917.


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Yes, Erik, when I first started pulling, a close friend built a track to practice on at his home. He had a drive-on set of ramps to work under cars with. We rigged a thick sheet of plexiglas so that we could drive a loaded puller onto it and from underneath we could see how the rear tire was sitting. This allowed us to tailor our air pressure so that the tire sat flat on the ground all the way across the tread. We could see the effect at different weights in case we needed to change the pressure for another class we were pulling in. This was just a matter of checking the tires, no cheating in this method. It is just a matter of figuring out what you have to work with and what you need you need to do to the tractor to win. There are a lot of stories to tell from over 20 years of pulling.sm03
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