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Rear hitch sea trials-update of update


johnmonkey

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Well the weather help out today and I was able to give the rear hitch a try. So far I really like it. I still need to add some bracing, maybe some "X" brace and one straight across (see below). When it scarified straight it worked better than expected. The hardest part was keeping my thumb on the lift arm. I need to add the pin that Rod has on his lift arm so it will free float. What do ya think?


























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Looks good. You'll need to tear things up a bit then push all the aggregate you can get to the center of the road making a large windrow. Once you have everything you can drag up in the center, drive over the top of the windrow straddling it. Let the blade distribute the aggregate evenly out both sides of the blade in the tire ruts. Leave a little aggregate in the center of the road for a crown. Your done.
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Thanks guys, those Bolens weight are 60 or 70 pounders, I will never give them up:D8D. When the body shop teacher painted them, I wanted to putty them up, but he said it was too deep for the putty to stick:(. jh
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Looks like it is doing a nice job. I think the bracing will help. At first view I could see the blade catching catapulting the rear wheels off the ground, :) but with the proper ground speed that shouldn't be a problem. Keep up the good work and keep the pictures coming.
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The ground speed is the key, I did hit a few solid objects and all I had to do was raise the blade with the lift, that's why my arm is tired, I need a pin that will keep the lift arm in float position. jh
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Looks good and a picture is worth a thousand words. I didn't know what you were talking about the rear hitch before, now I understand. Maybe you should move the cross bracing forward to the middle of the hitch and make the straight one in the rear between the pin points. Must point out I'm no engineer so maybe you have it right.
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quote:
Looks good and a picture is worth a thousand words. I didn't know what you were talking about the rear hitch before, now I understand. Maybe you should move the cross bracing forward to the middle of the hitch and make the straight one in the rear between the pin points. Must point out I'm no engineer so maybe you have it right.
Good idea about moving the X brace forward, I think I will. Rod I like the idea of the metal plate. . jh
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Simpleton7016
wow, looks great John.... and works better than I imagined. And, if you tie all those together, I think you will have enough support there for a Loader and have the ultimate earth moving machine!
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Looks good...Nice work.... You'll want to be careful with it though, when pushing a curved blade like that if it hangs up on something it will have a tendency to dig in and bring you to an abrupt halt. Possibly breaking something. When pulling they tend to jump up relieving the pressure. I've seen the hitch on farm tractors break when pushing a blade backwards from the same effect.
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Thanks for the comment, I was in 1st gear with my hand on the strong-arm lift, if I hit something hard, I would lift as I hit and it seemed to work well, I just can't get in a hurry. JH
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  • 3 weeks later...
Looks good. The length of it from mount to the blade still concerns me if you angle the blade, seems the sideways forces have a lot of leverage to twist something.
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I would put an extra x brace behind the first one. and possibly strait stock from the hitch point to the receiver, laid flat with cross braces or wield to the x braces to help stiffen it up. you never know what you might snag. looks like it works well and might help out with the ice that's under the snow. good luck
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Thanks for the ideas, I may look into a chain that will connect to the scarifier and attach to the front axle pin, maybe even two chains that criss-cross. jh
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One thing I really like about this concept is the fact it largely elimates a problem I have with snow no being able to roll under the hitch. Wonder if 2 angle/sq tubing irons dropped down from the tractor frame, maybe bolted to the tranny/BGB bolts would work as a guide for the hitch to raise up inbetween.
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  • 1 month later...
here are some criss-cross chains that I added and it worked real well. It still follows along with "KISS" keep it simple stupid theory. The chain hooks on the scarifier and crosses over to the front attachment point with a shackle, it is real easy to adjust. jh




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only problem I see is if you can't use the front blade now I thought you where thinking of a way to run both and it was walking to much on you. I have a thought: looks like you could take a peace of flat, and square tubing make a hinge point just under you foot rest or maybe right under the tractor centered. then using the square tube and another one just a little larger that they could slide threw and mounting on the blade on another hinge point. then you could raise and lower it, and run your blade on the front. or a hinge, one fold like this " > " out of tubing some sort of bushing to help with the side to side on a long bolt under tractor and blade. that might work to keep it from wandering. good luck.
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Nate, I think Marty wanted to use both the front blade with the scraper. I wanted to use the scarifier and then the blade. It's much easier to use than the old way of flipping the blade for each operation. You definately need to keep your hand on the lift so if you do hit something hard, you can be on the ready to lift in a hurry. You also need to move slow, in first gear for scarifier. I need a fix like Rods' where you can operate the lift without it locking in position.... that's next ;). jh
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just look like a super good toy. I could think of a lot of uses for that. as well the spiked grader blade would make my life so much easier. well it was just a thought I had.
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