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axle keyway


msiebern

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I got a 3416H is a package deal some time ago and finally decided to see what it would take to get it going. The main problem is that the PO broke the hub which allowed the key to wallow around in the keyway and tear up both the key and keyway to the point a new key will not work in the keyway. Options are new axle $$$, try to have a new keyway cut 180 degrees to the original $$, or some inventive engineering $. I seem to remember a post here some time ago about someone attaching a taper lock to the back of the hub and tightening down to the axle. I did a search but could not locate it. Does anyone else remember this or was I dreaming again?
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Mike - Having some problems with my differential this weekend, I did some archive searching today. I remember seeing the post that you are referring to somewhere in the 24 pages of "differential" archives. I will try to find it again tomorrow. Glen
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Mike, That was me. I used a taper lock hub obtained from Rod Hubbard. The post is at: http://www.simpletractors.com/club2/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=96628&SearchTerms=taperlock The LH hub can also be welded to the axle. The hub on my B-1 is welded on. Best I recall it takes a special welding rod. Edit: Or, you can use a late model one piece hub & axle with a late model differential.
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quote:
Originally posted by Roy
Mike, That was me. I used a taper lock hub obtained from Rod Hubbard. The post is at: http://www.simpletractors.com/club2/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=96628&SearchTerms=taperlock The LH hub can also be welded to the axle. The hub on my B-1 is welded on. Best I recall it takes a special welding rod. Edit: Or, you can use a late model one piece hub & axle with a late model differential.
Thanks Roy! That's the one I was looking for. Now to do a little research in the Granger catalog.
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Mike, I was the one who designed the hub using a swage (taper) lok bushing. The brand I used was Swagelok, that is why i use the word swage. Anyway, I got one that fit the axle and drilled across the split in the bushing to install an allen head bolt to take out the clearance. I then made a flat hub that would bolt onto the holes in the taper lock unit, and installed studs into it for the wheel to bolt to. I just used a square piece of metal for the flange when I built it, but Roy turned it round when I gave it to him. I now install the newer type axles and diffs in all my tractors. They have the left side hub welded to the axle. Let me know if I could be any help to you.
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Thanks for the info Rod. That will help with a few other options. I was hoping for something quick and easy, but mostly cheap until I find out the condition of the rest of the tractor. As I said it was in a lot of 3 tractors I purchased sometime back, none of which were running at the time. I want to test the Vickers hydro unit before I put too much time and money into the project. A complete axle update might be best if everything checks out. I just remembered the posting and thought it was a rather clever and simple fix. Thanks again.
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