OrangeMetalGuy Posted February 7, 2009 Posted February 7, 2009 How do you remove the original stickers before painting... I don't want to score or dig into the underlying metal with sharp tools... thanks for suggestions.
comet66 Posted February 7, 2009 Posted February 7, 2009 I'm not sure about the old ones, but a heat gun works on newer stuff. 3M makes a drill driven item called an erasure that does a fine job of removing such as that as well. Available at most auto parts stores I believe.
joshuaareed Posted February 7, 2009 Posted February 7, 2009 I really don't think there is any easy way to get 30+ year old stickers off. I was able to get the top layer off mine with getting a corner started and fulling like the dickens, but the glue was so dry and hard I had to grind it off. I will tell you it was not one of my most fun moments.
HubbardRA Posted February 7, 2009 Posted February 7, 2009 I have used mineral spirits to remove old sticker residue on automotive paint. Should work on a tractor. I have always just sanded down to bare metal. That removes stickers as well as paint. My tractors have all been rust buckets, so they needed sanding.
BLT Posted February 7, 2009 Posted February 7, 2009 If they are adhesive stickers, a heat gun will work.
KSever Posted February 7, 2009 Posted February 7, 2009 Heat Gun for the top layer, then WD40 for the adhesive.
MPH Posted February 7, 2009 Posted February 7, 2009 Learned about using WD-40 to remove the glue on commerical metal doors working for a living. Like Rod, the tractors I've redone needing sanding down to bare metal so the wirewheel removed the big stuff. Wire wheel buff marks went away with the primer paint.
xenon172 Posted February 7, 2009 Posted February 7, 2009 I usually sand or sand blast down to bare metal however all the techniques above work well. I have also used a propane torch for removal but you have to careful in this case. You just have to decide what works best for you.
dmsmitty2004 Posted February 7, 2009 Posted February 7, 2009 Like mentioned above, I had real good luck with a good heat gun and a putty knife and razor scraper on the decals on a early b-10 I've been working on restoring for the past yr or better. It got most of the sticky residue off also. It took some time and got it real hot so it started peeling away then scraped it off little by little.
OrangeMetalGuy Posted February 7, 2009 Author Posted February 7, 2009 Maybe I'll try scoring them (kinda like you do when removing wallpaper) and soaking them with Goo-Gone overnight, then scraping with a putty knife. Boy this website sure is a great resource... I really value all the information I've received from other members. It's great!
dentwizz Posted February 8, 2009 Posted February 8, 2009 I go for broke on that one. A 4.5" wire wheel in an angle grinder takes it like nothing.
cojo92 Posted February 8, 2009 Posted February 8, 2009 I just use a sander to sand them off but im gonna try PB blaster like elon said.
Brettw Posted February 8, 2009 Posted February 8, 2009 There used to be a product called Tal Strip. Nasty (good) stuff, would peel paint and stickers like no other. Haven't seen it in years, I would assume it was too toxic to continue in today's market. But if you can find it, it WILL do the job. The stuff I used was in a spray can.
grnlark Posted February 8, 2009 Posted February 8, 2009 Use a hair dryer on high for a minute or two and your finger nail to get it started. Keep it heated as you peel it off. It works every time. Heat guns have a tendency to get too hot. As far as any remaining glue or residue (for this project or ANY other), I'd highly recommend R-M 900 wax and grease remover. It's a reletively low cost pre-kleano auto body final cleaner right before painting. You can pick it up at any auto body paint and supply store and it comes in a can similar to that of a small paint thinner or mineral spirits (screw top). I use it before any auto body painting and it is safe on EVERYTHING - enamels, lacquers, urethanes, plastics, chrome - you name it. It dries perfectly clean (unlike Goo-Gone or Afta etc.). It's awesome to have around too for your cars or whatever if you get bumper scuffs, sap or overspray (like when you're spraying yellow A/C parts and your wifes car is in the wind pattern :)
msiebern Posted February 8, 2009 Posted February 8, 2009 quote:Originally posted by Brettw There used to be a product called Tal Strip. Nasty (good) stuff, would peel paint and stickers like no other. Haven't seen it in years, I would assume it was too toxic to continue in today's market. But if you can find it, it WILL do the job. The stuff I used was in a spray can. I have heard great things about this product on some other forums. I am just about ready to give it a try on a couple of projects I have started here. Is this the same one you are referring to? [url]http://www.sjdiscounttools.com/tsl2813.html[/url]
tracktor312 Posted February 8, 2009 Posted February 8, 2009 Its kinda funny an oldtimer I used to work with always had lighter fluid (zippo type ) but he didn't smoke. I asked him one day why he had it and he said it was for removing the stickers the idiots put on his machines. I never tried it but he said there was nothing better.
Architectdave Posted February 9, 2009 Posted February 9, 2009 I use a propane torch form the back it heat the metal and the adhesive gives way without burning up the sticker....dont cook the metal just gradually heat it up. If i had a heat gun Id use that.
rsnik Posted February 9, 2009 Posted February 9, 2009 I had to resort to propane on hardened hood decals (hardened, would not shave off with a razor blade) on a 7016. I was sanding to bare metal and you can sand into the decals but it gets real expensive ruining the sanding disk every few seconds. You have to heat carefully, repeatedly and slowly so as not to warp the metal. I slowly "barbecued" the decals on the side of the hood until they were reduced to "sandable" material and not plastic material that would quickly ruin expensive sanding discs.
Recommended Posts