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MPH's lift..


rsnik

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My questions are off topic from Marty's post so I thought I should start a new topic. BTW, Marty, really liked your post. I am very interested in anything to do with the lift unit. First question is, I have these kind of fittings on the new hoses instead of one-piece gooseneck fittings:


After installing the lift I ran the pump with a drill motor like Marty and it does not work (worked fine on the bench before installing). I think those fittings offer too many opportunities for a loose fitting and air leaks. At this point it would not be a big deal to pull the pump and have hoses with regular goose neck fittings made up and replace with them (they are not that expensive). It just seems like vibration is going to cause problems in the future with the fittings in the picture. Anybody agree/disagree? Next question is about the pump: if the connections are tight and absent any leaks will the pump purge the air out of the system just by running the pump or is there a procedure to purge air out? When bench testing the pump before installing it I wanted to purge the old oil anyway so I disconnected the ram and ran the pump with a drill while my son poured oil in with a funnel and let the pump squirt oil out into a bucket. I connected the hoses to the ram and all worked well. Until I installed it and then it would not work (I suspect the twists and turns of installing loosened one of those many fittings that you see in the pic and let air in). Next question is, I have another lift pump wherein I replaced the "O" rings in the spool valve the handle is connected to but now the front seal on the shaft the pulley mounts on leaks. Looks like maybe a repair that advice could prevent doing something "ill advised". Any advice on that?
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i have worked with those fittings for years. tighten the heck out of them and they should not leak-air in or oil out. i see no evidence in the pics of teflon tape on the fittings going into the pump. i would take them back off and put teflon tape on them, then reassemble the hoses. although i am told the system is self bleeding, i put the hoses on, fill the resevoir and loosen one hose at the cylinder. work the piston back and forth a couple of times to get most of the air out, then tighten it up. basically like bleeding car brakes
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You shouldn't have to bleed anything. The ram is double acting and will self purge. Every movement outside the control valve is under pressure, one side higher then the other depending on which way the work force is. If anything you should see oil oozing out of fittings when they are not tight. Myself, I would NOT recommend any tape as there is a remote chance of some getting in reservoir. Also nothing is mentioned in operators book. Here are sample instructions: http://www.simplicitytechpubs.com/6767PRINT/PDF_files/TP_100_1275_00_AT_S.pdf
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Thank you Dav and Bob. Bob, thank you for the manual. I printed it out at highest resolution and it came out real nice. It has been bitter cold in the garage. I'll try driving the pump with a drill motor again when it warms up a bit. It worked fine on the bench before installing it, the fittings are not weeping, so it should work installed on the tractor.
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Wish I had been smart enough to change the oil on mine while I had it out.B) Did change what drains outta the tank after it was back in. I never bled it after reinstalling, filled it full, ran it through maybe a dozen cyl. and toped off the oil again, dropped a few oz. I'd guess. You say it didn't work when you put it in the tractor, was that with tractor running? How cold was the shed then? What kind of drill did you use? using the 18 volt it pulls it down pretty good when it deadheads. dang, had I thought of it I could have set the clutch on the drill and given anyone without a gauge some idea what setting is required to push 800 psi. Sotty, ain't taking it back out to learn.
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I would never use tape going into cast iron, too easy to crack the housing. They appear to be ORB fittings in the pump, which means they have an o-ring under them, and are a straight threa rather than tapered pipe.
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They are also inverted flare and should not need to have sealer installed at the hose to fitting connections. Not to be a smart... but are you sure the drill was going in the right direction? Been there/done that...:O
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---"but are you sure the drill was going in the right direction? Been there/done that..."-- That had me at first the first time I tested one. Has to run in reverse.
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  • 2 weeks later...
Does anyone have a blow up diagram of a spool valve asy that shows all parts? (hydraulic lift) I just put a fresh shaft seal and 0-rings in but there is evidence that the previous owner had played with it. Thanks ..
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