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Snow Blade


Terry_Hart

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Posted
I am planning to replace the cutter blade on my 46" snow blade. The factory one is $67. I am considering using a Poly material. They use them on larger commercial plows. Has anyone tried this?
Posted
I have not tried it personally but it sounds like a winner. It won't rust and it should leave less marks on the pavement.
Posted
I don't see any reason why not, might wear out faster than the oem scraper bar. Just last weekend I went to Lowe's and bought a 4 footer of 3/16 x 3'' flat bar, trimmed 2'' off it and drilled 7 holes down the center length ways so I could flip it. Total cost $12^ One edge on a factory blade will out last both edges of mine but hey, for $12 how can you go wrong:D
OrangeMetalGuy
Posted
Reminds me of what we used to do with truck plows... we had Meyer plows, and instead of buying replacement shoes when they wore out we'd weld two pieces of angle-iron in parallel across the bottom of the shoes.
Posted
local hardware for some flat steel. and drill it like zach mentioned ^.
Posted
I drilled a piece of flat steel for mine as well. I do not use my grader blade but maybe once a year on dirt so after 3 years their is no wear still:D
Posted
I thought about flat stock and drilling it too. That would certainly be cheaper. Hopefully I won't need it anymore this season. The poly idea is more money, but I can buy a piece of marine Starboard 24"X56"X1/2" for about $60 and make several of them.
Posted
Yeah if you did that you could make, like 8 of themdOd
Posted
1/2 inch would be awfully thick for our little blades and probably last a lifetime.
Posted
the poly idea sounds good. id go with that. then u'll have a few spares :D
Posted
Terry The cutting edge on the 42" and the 46" snow plows is reversible. Just flip it over.
Posted
Already flipped it a few years ago.
Posted
I believe the 42" is not flipable, atleast not the older ones I have. The holes are offset to the top and the ends are cut at an angle for the flaps folded into the blade at the ends. I just made a cutting edge at work today. I looked around the shop and found an old leaf spring outside (1/4 x 2.5) I figured I might be able make work and would be a perfect size to make it flipable if it ever wears down again:D (original was 2" but the holes are offset 1/4" making it 1 1/4 from the center of the holes to the cutting edge). I straightened the flaps at the end of the blade and torched holes on the spring for bolts, then torched the overhanging ends of the spring off. This should last me several winters. I like that the ends of the spring is still sprung outward at the ends a little for catching the snow when cleaning up. I will see how it works soon, well maybe. [IMG]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v233/kismar/SimpClubPics/101_1141.jpg[/IMG] [IMG]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v233/kismar/SimpClubPics/101_1138.jpg[/IMG] [IMG]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v233/kismar/SimpClubPics/101_1140.jpg[/IMG]
Posted
Good job Thom. I like the leaf spring idea.
Posted
I also like the leaf spring idea Thom!dOd Us old iron aficionados are true recyclers. The spring should be some good steel, and will take any bumps on the ends well. Thanks for sharing, will have to remember that one.;)
Posted
Terry, There are alot of different kinds of poly and plastic. If you do go that way, talk to someone in the business to find out which will be best. I work in a machine shop, and alot of repair parts we make for local industry that used to be hard coated aluminum or bronze are now plastic, and they say it wears better. You will need a good combination of wear resistance and also shock resistance. I am thinking maybe the material they line dump trucks with? Steve
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