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I need a new muffler


LakeVermilion

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LakeVermilion
I am wondering if anyone out there can lead me to where I can find a muffler for my HB-212 Briggs 12 HP, that matches the original? Any hints on removing the old rusty one? Thanks
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New ones are available through a Simplicity dealer -- but take your checkbook with you, since they'll cost you $45-$50. Note that there should be a thin locknut or retaining ring on the muffler to keep it from vibrating loose. You'll likely need to chisel it off. Soak the threads on the muffler/head connection with PB Blaster, Kroil, or your favorite industrial-strength penetrating oil, then use a pipe wrench to unscrew it.
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To add to Kent's advise, if you break off the pipe next to the block, or can't get it turn with reasonable force, you can saw the pipe close to the block. To remove the remaining ring of metal, use a small, sharp chisel and score the ring in three or four places on the inside. You can then pry the piece out with an old screwdriver or punch. If you have access to a 1 inch pipe tap, it helps to clean the threads before installing the new muffler.
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You can also, if necessary, get the broken pipe piece, in the block, loosened up by making four hacksaw grooves inside the pipe at 90 degrees each and then punching the pipe inward to collapse and loosen the pipe away from the block threads. The grooves do not have to be real deep.
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If you've got access to an oxyygen/acetylene torch just heat up the outside circumference of the engine cherry red trying to keep the heat as much away from the muffler pipe as possiible and it should unscrew without any problem. You're heating that outside circumference to expand the metal on the engine, if you were to heat the muffler pipe itself it is expanding that and defeating your purpose. In a pinch I've used Mapp gas too. Mapp Gas is similar to a propane torch but much hotter. You can get that at any hardware store but the initial investment is around $50.
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Welcome to the site. From a former Iron Ranger it's nice to see someone from Da Range visiting this site. I sure do miss the walleye dinners at the Sawmill. dOddOd You might want to try Jacks Small Engines or Sandy Lake Implement, both are sponsors on this site to order your muffler. Last I checked, the nearest Simplicity dealer to your location was in Grand Rapids. You can get the part shipped to your door for less than it would take to drive to Grand Rapids. Here's parts manual for the Simplicity 3212H which is the the Simplicity equivalent to the HB212. http://www.simplicitymfg.com/data/temppdfs/TP_400_1321_00_SV_S_LOA5C3290B-E031-151E-7F6C9D766E7F16B1.pdf Part number for the muffler is 157634.
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I break the lock ring loose and then heat the pipe up, if necessary, then let it completely cool back down adding a little oil when in the warm stage then unscrew it. This method expands the pipe and breaking up the rust, then as it gets cool it pulls the oil into the threads and usually screws right out. I do usually come back to it a whole day later. I do this because I don't like heating up the block in one confined area.
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Is that part number the 1 to 1 same muffler or is that a newer 'equivalent'. I've been trying to find out but there are no pictures online. I want to keep the same look as original.
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quote:
Originally posted by JimDk
To add to Kent's advise, if you break off the pipe next to the block, or can't get it turn with reasonable force, you can saw the pipe close to the block. To remove the remaining ring of metal, use a small, sharp chisel and score the ring in three or four places on the inside. You can then pry the piece out with an old screwdriver or punch. If you have access to a 1 inch pipe tap, it helps to clean the threads before installing the new muffler.
I add Hi-Temp never seize to the threads of the muffler before re-installing.
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Jeff, I am down here in Park Rapids, MN. Grand Rapids is about half way between us. We will have to meet in Grand Rapids one day for a cup of coffee. Welcome to the club!! I have used Sandy Lake Imp and have found them very very helpful and always had what I needed. They talk our language (tractor talk). Dan aka IronPony
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