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Found reason for the clinky engine I think


AC_B-1Novice

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I went out to the barn and checked the oil in the 6216 before running it on the yard. Guess what? The oil didn't even register on the stick. I put about 1/2 to 3/4 quart in and it became much quieter. I guess I'm going to have to check that thing all over in spite of what I was told because I tried mowing with it and it really cuts uneven. That's the way it is moving west though.... sometimes you get an arrow in the back. larry
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Ive learned never trust the "oil is changed" line. I lost one connecting rod to that. The last mower I bought had the statment "new air filter and oil". Got home and found the air filter was badly stained and the oil was brown. Since I didn't pay anything near what it was worth, I didn't press for it. In fact I somewhat expect it to happen. Thats where it's nice to deal with club members instead of craigslisters;)
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Leveling the deck is not to hard at all - as long as you have a level area in the barn:) - make sure the blades are not bent and tire pressure are right/deck lift chain is not hung up - Briggs still sells a tuneup kit for the 16hp twin with the correct amount of oil for it - air filter/plugs/fuel stabilizer - Chris
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I think the twins hold 1-1/2 to two quarts, sounds way too low. How much was it run like this? Good rule of thumb is to always check the oil on an unfamiliar machine, in reality it probably should be checked every day you use it.
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How does it run?? other than noise - any smoke? - any drips? - Choke and throttle cables work/hook up right? and keep checking that oil level. Air filters can be deceiving - look good, but are really clogged
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It seems to run good. No smoke no drips, seems to have a lot of power and the cables seem to work ok. The one thing I have noticed is that it is quite hard to shift and it has an extremely short turning radius to the right. Ok to the left. larry
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Also, I do have a level area. The area around the barn is also concrete and large. I just have to get the instructions and persevere. larry
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Hi, This problem is normally caused by the left front wheel hitting something and bending the left side of the front axle back. This has the same effect on steering as making the drag link longer would. The problem nearly went away on the later 4 5 and 6000 tractors when the material the front axle was made of was made significantly thicker. We have made a tool from a 40s vintage Plymouth drive shaft, welding 2 1 inch by 6 inch pieces of shafting about 3 inches apart to the splines. This makes it like a non adjustable "monkey wrench" (This will date you) We then put the "jaws" over the axle and have someone stand with their feet against the left rear tire to keep the rear of the tractor from sliding. Then one of us takes the wrenches five foot handle and pull forward. Usually we can bend the axle straight again. Without someone standing against the tire usually the rear end of the tractor will slide before the axle straightens. The guy on the 5 foot handle has to really pull. We have probably straightened 100 of these over the last 30 years. Good luck. Al Eden
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All mine turn sharper to the left also - figured that was the side going around the tree/rock anyway - Hard shifting - may have to do with the clutch/brake adjustment - they are different, depending on if it is a early or late model - I usually find a (sweet) spot when I push the brake pedal to shift gears(not moving) not all the way forward and not engaged - once adjusted to the right measurements
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Al and Sunrunner. Well these two posts give me plenty to work on. Thanks for the info. I did notice that on the front left side of the axle it has been welded. It has been cleaned off and the weld is much larger than the one on the right side of the tractor.:(! Hard to trust anyone anymore. This is the second time this year I've been hoodwinked by a (distant) fellow church member. :D I'll live... and learn... Larry
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Can you get some pics of the weld - If it was done right, you should have no problems:D For what it's worth saying - In my opinion, you have a very clean snow thrower that's at least worth $350+ and it shouldn't take to much to clean the tractor up^ Some knowledge and some greasy hands:) I once drove very far to pick up a 16hp that was suppose to be out of a Simplicity(he swore), it was not. The engine shaft was tapered and the main pulley did not fit tight. sm00
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Yes, I'll take a picture of the weld and post it here. I guess you never know whether someone make an honest mistake or if they are conning you. Maybe it's better we don't know. larry
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I bought this house and barn from people who said the heater had been serviced and the barn didnt leak. The heater had cobb webs and a bad belt, the roof leaked at the first rain(which was the first in months, but leaked bad). I choose to believe that they hired someone to do the heater who hoodwinked them. They paid half of the roof repair at least.
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Here are the pictures of the welded bracket on the 6216. Also a plow that I would like to use on the tractor but don't know quite how to do it with that hitch. Can it be done? larry








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Here are the numbers the best I could get them from a badly worn tag. It looks to me to be 1690930 001281. Here are the pics and one of a red and silver tractor I picked up last year and is still waiting.






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1690930 is a later model 6216 - Weld looks good to me....You are going to need this hitch to use the moldboard on a 6200.


Nice Massey - Chris
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Is the front axle also welded out by the wheel where I circled? [IMG]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v233/kismar/SimpClubPics/Weld20axle206216.jpg[/IMG]
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Sunrunner, No, I went out to the barn to check after I looked at the pictures myself. What I found was just some mud collected on the axle.:D Where do you get a hitch like that? Do you know what they cost or do I have to make one? Also I could not feel anything on top of my engine pulley except it feels like it flairs out from one diameter to a larger diameter. Larry
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What years were that style front hitch used? That explains why my dad's 46" dozer had forked mounts instead of the usual tabs. We ended up modifying to tabs recently, but I never saw the point of the forks til that picture.
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Sunrunner: Thanks for the info. I too am wondering what it is that Dentwizz would like to know. I think that red u shaped hitch part probably fits another tractor of some kind. It came with the plow, deck and I'll have to look in the barn to see if I can figure out which tractor it came with when I bought it. larry
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I was referring to the fact that I have a 46" (allis?)dozer that came from the factory with the forked hitch to mate to that u-shaped axle hitch. I don't know the model number of it but I want to be able to pin down what year the tractor was that it was intended for. It isn't a real big deal, but it has always been a curiousity.
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