Jump to content

Unofficial Home of Old Simplicity & Allis-Chalmers Garden Tractors

Sign in to follow this  
OrangeMetalGuy

Started rear end swap

Recommended Posts

OrangeMetalGuy
I have to swap transmissions on my 716H because the right rear axle tube is cracked. I have a Simp. 7016H donor exactly the same that I'm swapping the rear end out of. On the donor, pulled the wheels and found that since I have a welded left hub I needed to pull the axle out. Did that. This will go back in, right??? So I'm ready to remove the Sunstrand hydro, but can't get the drive pulley off... have it soaking in PB Blaster maybe I'll get lucky. Guess I have to go get a puller. Question - how do you get those hydraulic hoses off from underneath... I can't even budge 'em. Or do you just cut them off and put new ones on?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Simpleton7016
The drive pulley - I tried in desperation to get one off once and after much sweat, I found a trick that has worked for me and a few others. I am no expert in centrifugal force (or anything else for that matter), and you may not be able to see it with your naked eye....but the end of the pulley shaft somehow mushrooms ever so slightly. I found that if you soak it in PB Blaster and try to drive the pulley further ON TO the shaft (even if just 1/8") then lighly grind the shaft smooth all the way around (and up to the pulley hub)with a handheld grinder, it will come right off with a puller. If you try a puller, you will almost for sure bend that pulley. Oh, also make sure you check for set screws and remove them....and fill the empty reservoir with PB Blaster.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
OrangeMetalGuy
Thanks. I did remove the setscrew and filled the hole with Blaster (also sprayed both sides of the pulley). I'll hit it again with Blaster a couple more times between now and the weekend. How much banging can you do on those shafts/pulleys... the book says you will damage the hydro by driving on those shafts... Fortunately, the one I'm working on now is the donor.. I'd rather learn how to get these things apart on the parts tractor instead of the good one. I guess the trans swap is the best way.. there's no way to swap axle tubes without pulling the hydro and trans out, is there? The axle itself came out pretty easily.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Simpleton7016
yeah, do not drive the shaft...only the pulley hub. But be sure to use a grinder and you won't won't have to do much banging at all! It works....just lightly grind around the entire circumference of the shaft. Only need to take off maybe 1/64 and then hook up the gear puller and voila, pulley is off.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
CarlH
I am finishing up that swap on my 7116H right now. The hoses are no problem once the pulley is off and the hydrostat is loose from the transmission/frame. They ought to be replaced with new hoses, filter, and fluid. BTW it is 5/8" ID hose (oil resistant, NOT heater hose, I had to go to several auto/farm supply places before I found some manufactured by Gates). I did not remove the axle/hub on the donor transmission, but you have put it through the left frame hole from exactly the right angle to do so.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
ambler
I think you have to split the case to remove the axle tube, which means it has to be removed. If donor BGB is good, it might be better to split tractor at the BGB and thus simplify the transplant.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
OrangeMetalGuy
Well Ambler it's the one I got from you so I'm guessing it's good! I have the old one far enough apart I think I'll continue this route... that is if I can get the pulley's off both hydros. Just so I know how these things work, it appears that the axle itself just floats in the tube to lend support, but the driving force is actually applied by the tube.. is this right? I see there's one keyway on the right side of the axle but I'm pretty sure there was no key in it.. at least I didn't have to remove one. Didn't see one lying on the ground or feel one inside the differential. If there's no key in that slot, that means the only thing keeping the axle from turning inside the hub is the setscrews? Took a couple photos... the seal on the right hand hub is looking pretty bad, I need to get a new one it looks like. At least the front of the good tractor is looking nice (last photo)!










Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

Sign in to follow this  

×