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nateb17010

new tractor for me to fix, and it's a 414

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nateb17010
well my brother couldn't drive it any longer before it gets fixed. we had hoped to try to work on her after all the tilling jobs was done, but.... well here's what I get to work on






his complaints are: #1 starting "I said put a B&S in it" #2 dose not shift correctly #3 slips the belt in gear "needs adjusted" #4 tiller better but needs work #5 head gasket #6 I just need you to fix it this is just a short list and will show you all what I find wrong but would like your $0.02 on any of the fixes listed above this is the first 400 I have worked on and I have no books this model just phis. so I will just wing it until I hit a slick spot. thanks for your thoughts. what do you think of my find with him buying it? $450.00 with deck and tiller. I love spending others peoples money don't you. just didn't think I was going to have to fix it up so soon.

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sammiefish
Cool! ill be watching this! Ive been going through my 310. mooseman has a 400... Im sure he can tell you some about the 400 specifics... He had mentioned in the snowblower world to use / attach it in the 300 fashion (to the frame instead of the front axle) the 400's front axle doesnt necessarily like the blower too much. On the tiller... You probably know by now but the 3 flange bearings, although they appear to be able, are not replaceable without opening the case. there is a nut on the end of the bolts and will spin after you loosen the bolt. Im welding the nuts (or the bolts) on the inside of the case so if they ever need to be replaced again, it can be done from the outside of the case. This design was eventually modified in manufacture. Are there a stickers / logos on your tiller? I have the white tiller also but no stickers, no model #, just serial # AC tag on case. There is a "300 400 one stop shop" thread w/ all the info/manuals here, but I lost the address... and never have much luck searching... maybe someone can post the link... I'd like to bookmark it myself

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nateb17010






what dose these do on the rear of the tiller seen them before but I just can't remember? I have not been able to get to this project yet been working on my truck, as well as the boy's. plus it's been nice for 2 days and now it's going to rain for 3 days so I can work on her then.

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nateb17010
also is there a way that a 7000 lift arm would work? before and after of the truck not done yet! but getting close.




and the boy's




took 2 hr to drill and straiten supports and a line just right

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KSever
Nate, Curious what this truck has to do with this tractor and Talking Tractors Forum?
quote:
Originally posted by nateb17010
also is there a way that a 7000 lift arm would work? before and after of the truck not done yet! but getting close.
[img]/club2/attach/nateb17010/new truck 007web.jpg[/img]

[img]/club2/attach/nateb17010/4142 0252web.jpg[/img]
and the boy's
[img]/club2/attach/nateb17010/ebay dustin 004.jpg[/img]

[img]/club2/attach/nateb17010/4142 029web.jpg[/img]
took 2 hr to drill and straiten supports and a line just right

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nateb17010
KSever: I have not been able to get to this project yet been working on my truck, as well as the boy's. plus it's been nice for 2 days and now it's going to rain for 3 days so I can work on her then. just explaining why I have not done anything to the tractor is all. also I had to split it up from my original post. Chris727: as you can see from the picture it's missing some thing.


sammiefish: all the # I could make out I think is tiller 1690039 00435 tractor sn # 25901093 4145 and the engine 14 hp kohler "aka boat anchor" where would the sn #, type, and other # for this engine would be at? also it's hard to shift now, not like when we picked it up. are the tranys the same as when it was AC/simplicity.

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sammiefish
well, OK... I couldnt find a mfg # on my tiller the shifting thing... Even when this was brand new 37 years ago (of course I was just 6 yrs old) I remember to move the lever front to back was always difficult... still is. The neutral safety switch was very fussy as well... also the brake/clutch needs to be well engaged to shift more easily... maybe that needs some adjustment... Ill have to think about the engine #'s..

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Chris727
Shuttle transmissions are problematic in general. I think you can ajdust it the same as the Simplicity models, the transmissions were basically the same, they are just harder to access because of the bulky rear fenders. As for the lift lever you can't use a 7000 one on it because it probably won't clear the hood but the missing components might interchange or still be available new. The engine numbers will either be on the top or side of the shroud on a sticker, if its still there.

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nateb17010
sammiefish: your answer is all thanks to joshuaareed. also what "neutral safety switch" I think it fell off long a go. Chris727: I am thinking it in the rear end now I think it's stuck in between 2 gears "shift forks" I turned around the tires so there not rubbing anymore, the shuttle part is working ok now. also kohler "aka boat anchor" don't stamp it in the top of the shroud? that's weird.. I thought they did, I have the sticker "14HP" on top but there's no # on it. on the lift arm the 7000 was just an idea because I have a couple just laying around, but I will just have to rig one up, so it will work for now. but.... if any one has a picture of the lift arm so I could see what it was to look like, that would help out a lot. top and bottom picture like I have posted already. thank you to all that has responded, and for your help.

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sammiefish
the neutral safety switch is engaged by a nub on the shift shaft... If that thing is not dead on ... no starty... I unplugged mine.. but now with the kids maybe getting on this (or maybe not!) I may hook it back up.

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nateb17010
sammiefish: all my "safety switches" fall off on the way home on the trailer, for some reason there never hooked up or are missing by the time I get home. I mean that switch is not the problem. over all I think it's lack of lube. I'm going to try some auto trany fluid to clean it out, then diesel to flush it out, and then put some lucas and cen.pe.co. gear lube in and see if it helps with the shifting issue. sammiefish: could you please take a picture of your lift arm and post it for me, so I can have a look see. the other thing is there is quite a bit of play on the axle and tube as well in the driven pulley with the shuttle. oh well another time I guess.

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sammiefish
yeah, my safety switch comment was just an aside... when is it that you have trouble shifting? when you push the shift lever front to back or side to side... front to back is the issue I was speaking about... or is it the speed range "shifting" you are talking about? Im not completely clear what your issue is with the lift arm... is your thumb button missing???? Ill get a pic as soon as I can... hopefully today sometime BTW, Im moving, closing on new house 7 acres on Thursday I hope... Im living in a sea of boxes... uuuhhhh!! Please excuse me if Im slow on the replys...

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mooseman3210
you can get a total rebuild kit new piston included from 120 total and a brand new crab for 69.oo total as for the belt slipping there is a few tips and tricks i learned if you would like email me the specifics i could help you get the kinks worked out of it ... these 400 are real easy to adjust once you figure out which one is slipping . also i always replace all belts every year . a total of 35 dollars total . let me know if you would like to know the place i get my engine parts they are real cheap and just as good as the expensive stuff and aslo a new starter 62 dollers ....... thanks mooseman

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nateb17010
sammiefish: just what I was thinking I can use some of the 7000 parts to rebuild the lift arm. just need a little strait rod and tap the top and bend the bottom a little use the 7000 stop striker, and she will work like new. your belt set up is like the B-110 "early set up" mine has the 2 belt set up "later set up" and thanks for the pic. also I hope you take some pictures of your new kingdom when you get settled in. hope there's a large garage or shop and other out building to house your toys in. congratulations on your possibility of new house. Simplicity85: yes, but I better not. I was reminded to keep this only on tractor talk and not what has held you up from working on your project. yes on the tractor "fix & sell", I think we are going to fix it up and get rid of it. then look for a tiller for the B-110. this was just to get him started. the B-110 he likes better anyways. mooseman3210: I'm just going to replace the head gasket and check out the top end and give an oil change and give it back, then this summer we will work on it more. if I was to rebuild some thing it would be a Briggs and add to the scrap iron pile with that toilet. thanks for your input. your name has been mentioned before on this thread and was hoping that you could join in on our conversation on the 300/400 Allis made tractors. by the sound of it your the man to ask. the problem is with the rear end shifting from gears. the belt chirping was caused by the tire rubbing the rear pulley. "fixed" this tractor had only seen sun light in the spring "tilling" then put back in to the shed till next year. we bought it and ran the day lights out of it. so now the problems are showing up. lots of barn rash. thanks to all that has helped so far.

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nateb17010
ya we are tossing around the idea of that anyways. but still running in to the problem of tightening the rear drive belt using the 2 belt pulley system. oh well the weather is working on my side it keeps on raining :D wah, just tried of the rain already. but my garden is mostly in.

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Chris727
You don't need the two belt system with this tiller. Just use the idlers off the 414, and put on the correct lenght belt for a short wheelbase tractor, it will work fine, I had this type of tiller on my B-110.

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