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carburetor questions


TomF

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A problem i have had in the past is rust on the bottom of the gas tank. My tractor would run rough and die. I would take the fuel line off and brown colored gas would come out. There's a ton of ways you can clean them out but somebody on this site said a motorcycle tank kit works good. They sell them at most bike shops and it recoates the tank. Hope this helps some. (the rust clogs the fuel filter quick too.)
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We've got several more carb questions for the experts: 1. We are having fuel feed problems on our Big Ten. On removing the fuel line from the carb, a brownish thick goop is in the fuel mix. Any ideas what this might be? 2. I remember reading someone's discussion comments at one time that they used compressed air to "blow back through" to clean out possible fuel system obstructions. Was this referring only to the gas line, or can you do it on the carb somehow? In other words, is it always necessary to disassemble the carb if the nozzle is blocked, or can one blow an obstruction out (of the nozzle in this case) with air somehow? 3. Has anyone ever applied "Never-Seize" or Loctite (removable) to the threads of the brass nozzle where it screws into the cast carburetor body? It's been mentioned this is a usual corrosion point, and we've ruined a few nozzles just getting them unscrewed due to corrosion. Thanks for any advice you can suggest! Tom and Peter Feldpausch
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Hi, Regarding the nozzle problem, Briggs makes a 4 way jet wrnch and they aren't that expensive, also they have 2 that are like a screwdriver that is hollow ground. The key is to have a "wrench" that is straight down the sides parallel to the threads and the bit that is flat on both sides so the part that goes in the slots is square, not tapered like a regular screw driver is. You can make an excellent one, just take an old screw driver that has a round shaft that just fits in the threaded hole and cut it off behind the flared part. Then Hollow Grind the shaft until you have an end that just fits in the nozzle slot and is straight, not tapered where it fits in the nozzle slot. This will just about eliminate damaged nozzles. Screwdrivers sell nozzles. If you buy the 4 way Briggs Jet wrench, take it on a bench grinder and square the ends up so the corners where they touch the bottom of the slot are sharp 90 degrees. Good luck, AL
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Any part of the fuel system that you blow into can be damaged ,if you blow into a carb. that is not dissasembled you will probably collapse the float.Also the original fuel shutoff under the tank should have a fine screen in it that will probably be blown off with air pressure.
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Any part of the fuel system that you blow into can be damaged ,if you blow into a carb. that is not dissasembled you will probably collapse the float.Also the original fuel shutoff under the tank should have a fine screen in it that will probably be blown off with air pressure.
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Thanks for the tips. Al, we have the 4-way wrench and it works well. You're also right about making one out of an old screwdriver - we could have gone that route, too. Peter says the nozzle we are looking to remove is pretty corroded up. Hopefully, the 4-way wrench will get it out without a problem. I was looking for an alternate route if there was one. Rich, we'll scan for rust and see what we find. Cal, thanks for the heads-up re. using compressed air.
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