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crankyyankee

Dealer said to add a Ford coil..?

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crankyyankee
I have Allis B110 used it for about two weeks after i bought and i went to start her and nothing happened. I changed the fuel. Checked spark it was weak. I cleaned points plug but no difference. so I bit my tongue and brought it to the local Simplicity dealer for repair. I told him the problem when i was unloading it off my trailer. He said that it might be a problem with coil or flywheel and it would be easier to add a Ford coil from Nappa.I asked them if they would do it and he said no, but its easiy.. Im not a wizzard at points and I dont want to take out the engine. DOES ANYONE KNOW HOW TO DO THIS FORD COIL INSTALL? Would save us from pulling engines to get a spark..

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msiebern
These articles should be of some assistance. [url]http://www.simpletractors.com/do_it/magneto_to_coil.htm[/url] [url]http://www.simpletractors.com/club2/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=107264[/url]

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dentwizz
The OEM coil is not all that bad or hard to do. If you want to upgrade without points, get a Magnetron coil kit. It is reasonably priced and you will never need to worry about it in your lifetime(unless mice get to it). In all honesty though, the coils rarely go bad in my experience. The points, switch, or chassis grounds go out a lot more often. To check the switch, unplug it. Get a spark checker(16 bucks for the briggs one) and link it up while testing. It makes a huge difference for evaluating objectively. The points should be CLEAN AND SILVER, perfection is mandatory. File agressively. Sand your mounting areas well, and replace the condenser($8). Once these items are in place, then you can evaluate truly whether or not you need a coil. Battery ignition is a band aid fix for a briggs. You invite problems down the line, not limited to: Sheared flywheel damage from indirect timing control Awkward to buy and maintain parts later Problems if you get a weak battery. I know there are many proponents to the battery type, but I state what I have seen in experience.

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HubbardRA
I have had battery-coil ignition on a 10 Hp B/S for over 20 years with absolutely no problems. It is still my most dependable engine. I feel that I must take exception to the long term problems listed by Dentwizz. If the points have the correct gap, the ignition will fire at the correct timing, same as with a magneto, so the timing would be the same. B/S points and condenser and Kohler coil should be avaliable for quite a while. However any automotive coil can be used with a ballast resistor, and any automotive condenser can be wired into the ignition if necessary. As long as you can get the points, you can make the ignition work. If the battery has enough charge to turn the engine, then a battery-coil ignition will fire the plug. The slower the engine turns, the hotter the fire, because the coil has charged longer. A magneto needs to be turning at a fairly good speed to make sufficient spark. If the engine is turning too slow, you have no fire from a magneto. Just be sure that when converting to an external coil, the coil must have an internal ballast resistor, or you will need to wire a ballast resistor in series with the coil. The best bet is to just buy a Kohler coil from a K-series engine. That is what I am running on the 10 Hp B/S. Without a ballast resistor, the points will not last long before burning.

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crankyyankee
Thanks for the usefull knowlege.. sm01 I just got the b110 back from the dealer and all they did was replace points and condenser. I also had them do a tuneup while she was in the shop. 250.00 bill.. not bad.. She PURRRS now. Gonna put loader on her with the new custom rear scraper blade for the snow.

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jdwilson
I got my 2012 from a dealer back in 1976 for 500 dollars. It had an old car coil on it and it has ran perfectly all these years, three and a half hour ride times 30 years! Until the top ring broke:( I still have not fixed it. It's hibernating out in the shed.

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