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6216 Re-starting trouble...


jerseyjoe

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Hello All, I've got a condition with my 6216 that once I start it, I do all the work needing to be done; since if I shut the unit off it will not start again until it cools down. This is a manageable condition, and never thought of asking here if anyone has an idea as to why this might happen. When I say it won't start.. I mean it will not fire... it turns over; however will not fire until it sits at least 2 to 3 hours for cooling. Thanks, Joe in Jersey
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Hi Joe...... I have the same problem with my 6218. I was told that it's the coil. When the coil gets too hot it will not give out any spark. I hope this helps you.......Ralph
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i have the same problem with my 6512. the way i work around that is is turning the throttle all the way down before turning the engine off then when i come back i dont touch throttle or choke and she starts right up. give that a shot.
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I have the same problem with two 5216s. I think it is a Briggs twin problem. I replaced the coil on one and it still does it sometimes. 3 years and I still haven't figured it out.
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WOW!! I'm really surprised this is not an individual concern; only to myself! I will have to research the Megatron ignition... not too sure of that question. Any way to easily ID? The coil theory sounds logical... I've owned the tractor for about 4 years (brother sold it to me) and it had all kinds of peculiarities.sm01 I continue to work those out... Anyone else who'd like to chime in... please do, I'm sure there is more info out there on this concern. I must say the wife likes it (as a condition...) I keep working until it's done; however, we all know it's not work while riding a simplicity!!!sm01 Joe in Jersey
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I feel that it is a fuel problem arrising from the fuel line being run through the shroud(tin), while running the fuel is fine once shut off it gets hot in the shroud section leading to vapor lock, or swelling of the hose which pinches off the fuel supply. Should only be an opposed twin problem and running new fuel line or rerouting it usually solves the problem.
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I know this isn't going to help much but my 6212.5 did the same thing and I can't remember how I cured it. Too many tractors. Dang nabit anyway. 8C Chris
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Hello Sunrunner, I looked at the engine and it does say "Magnatron" right on top of the engine. Should there be something else I could investigate regarding this non-starting when Hot condition? Someone told me it might be a "chip" that needs replacing... Anyone care to say whether they have knowledge about a "chip" in the electronic system" Thanks, Joe
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I have had a couple vertical shaft B/S engines that would not start at WOT/full choke after they warmed up. They had to be started at just above idle.
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NO chip....The engine needs to start/spin at a certain rpm in order for the magnatron system to send spark - does it spin good when warmed up?? Will look more into the manual....Chris
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Chris, Yes... it spins over just as fast when hot (Warmed up) as it does when starting for the first time. It'll crank and crank but will not fire; even tried using ether... no go. Let it cool down for about 1 - 2 hours and it'll start again. Joe
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Try a new and different brand Spark plug. I have a 3212H that doesn't like to start once in a while If I take the plug wire off and hold it about ½" from the plug it will start. I know its the spark plug but just haven't changed it. Some plugs will fire cold but not hot after they have been shut off. Sometimes they will fire when hot but not cold. Some will fire great out side of the engine but will not fire under compression.
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You should never jump to a quick fix without testing for spark --- when the engine is hot and will not restart, do a quick spark check --- if you have spark, work on the fuel system --- if you don't have spark,work on the ignition system --- you can get a spark tester for less than $10 --- best investment I made to keep these old engines going.
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A spark tester will tell you if spark is going to the plug but it will not tell you if the plug is firing under compression. A spark plug that is out side of the cylinder and grounded that fires does not mean it will fire inside of the cylinder under compression. I have seen this happen with both hot and cold plugs.
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Your issue can arise on many different air cooled engines most of the time it is from heat soaking. when you shut down the engine the surrounding parts heat soak the coil, spark plugs can have this issue and carburetors can also, The best remedy it so keep things clean and allow the engine an idle time before shut down this would give the air cowling time to cool the engine down a bit before shut down.
quote:
i have the same problem with my 6512. the way i work around that is is turning the throttle all the way down before turning the engine off then when i come back i dont touch throttle or choke and she starts right up. give that a shot.
Carburetors that heat soak become vapor locked as well as fuel lines,
quote:
I feel that it is a fuel problem arising from the fuel line being run through the shroud(tin), while running the fuel is fine once shut off it gets hot in the shroud section leading to vapor lock, or swelling of the hose which pinches off the fuel supply. Should only be an opposed twin problem and running new fuel line or rerouting it usually solves the problem.
coils get to hot to sustain a proper field coil resistance and won't fire or intermediate fire till you flood the engine (weak spark).
quote:
Hi Joe...... I have the same problem with my 6218. I was told that it's the coil. When the coil gets too hot it will not give out any spark. I hope this helps you.......Ralph
spark plugs have almost the same effect as the coils(not enough resistance to make a spark jump under compression, heat can be a bad thing when you get two much of it.(Ref.)[url]http://www.ngksparkplugs.com/tech_support/spark_plugs/index.asp[/url] Spark Plugs have a heat range on them and usually a lower heat range will correct the problem of them getting soaked.
quote:
Try a new and different brand Spark plug. I have a 3212H that doesn't like to start once in a while If I take the plug wire off and hold it about ½" from the plug it will start. I know its the spark plug but just haven't changed it. Some plugs will fire cold but not hot after they have been shut off. Sometimes they will fire when hot but not cold. Some will fire great out side of the engine but will not fire under compression.
Check for mouse nest, dirt dobber wasp nests, or any foreign contaminate in your blower shroud also make sure the flywheel screen is cleared. Clean the motor of grease or dirt around the cooling fins isolate the heat from parts like: The Carburetor, factory gaskets are sometimes made as a shield that sticks out way to much over the port to inhibit heat soaking. Coils internal should get free air from the shroud. External coils should be guarded from heat soak or placed in a low heat area. Go through some steps and check the little things as decribed above before parts changing, it will save Frustration and Money
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THANKS ALL... Great tips and logical assumptions with the re-starting concern. I'll work on all options proposed and report back. It might be in the spring, or winter if we get some snow!! Joe in Jersey
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