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dentwizz

My Landlord quit smoking

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dentwizz
I have been trying to figure my 9hp chronic smoking problem for quite some time(while not having much budget). 20w-50 oil helped a lot, but it was always smoky for the first 2-3 minutes then only mild smoke at idle. When I re-honed and ringed and it helped a little. Long story short, two people reccomended valve seals(instead of a full valve job.). I put on a set of automotive 'umbrella' seals and voila it all went away. The funny thing is the engine shop guy who gave them to me, yes for free, said he thought it was rings not valves. 8D Just one for the reference files. Probably next year it will be followed with a real guide replacement but this was much cheaper and faster.

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kenmill1958
Sounds like the oil ring was worn . Might have taken a bit to break in after the ring job. Were you consuming a lot of oil or fouling the plug?? Personally I wouldn't use 20/50w oil. Too heavy for these small engines. Causes premature wear and improper lubrication

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dentwizz
I had lots of smoke before seals, no smoke after seals. Rings were done in the spring. Pretty sure the rings were broke in already. Ive used lucas before but only lightly. I love it in trans and gearboxes though. Yes the 20-50 is going to revert to 30w next chance I get, it was merely to appease the EPA(made a little difference).

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powerking_one
I think long term you're going to have severe wear now on the valve guides and valve stems. The seals are basically starving them of oil now. I don't know if the guides are replaceable on the 23D or if Briggs made an oversize valve (stem) version for servicing guide wear problems. Maybe Bob (BLT) knows? Tom (PK)

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dentwizz
I do agree with the assertion about the wear, but the fact of the matter is I cannot afford a valve job now since I am unemployed and by the time wear becomes a factor I should be able to afford it.

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Vassal
quote:
Originally posted by dentwizz
.........and by the time wear becomes a factor I should be able to afford it.
I think wear has already become a factor :DXX( I'm glad to see your post on this because I had pondered the thought of using valve seals before in an attempt to buy some time. Not knowing a whole lot about these engines, I do wonder if delaying guide replacement is really such a horrible thing (at least from my all-out cheap chump view)? Looking in the engine manuals for the two similar iron engines (243400 & 326400) I don't see an actual valve guide in the block, so I ass-ume the stems ride directly in the iron block. This tells me there are probably two options for guide replacement - a thin-wall 'liner' and a heavy wall 'guide'. What's the story here? I venture to guess that unlike a side-loading rocker arm valve train, these engines don't see as much valve wobble and therefore, maybe these things can stand quite a bit of abuse (and oil burning) before anything catastrophic takes place. (Maybe not so for inferior replacement parts or for the Kohlers??) Thanks for sharing^

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