B-Series Hydraulic Lift

[BMinor8806 0]

Hello everyone, I am trying to diagnose my lift problems on my new Hydrolift for my B-112 tractor. The handle does not spring back to hold position and lifts slowly with little power. Also I am thinking of a rebuild, anything I should look for / consider? Brandon

[BMinor8806 0]

But what about my handle problem? It has to be held in hold position to not move the cylinder.

[JimDk 0]

Brandon, Welcome to the club. I own a couple of tractors with hydro lift, but other than a relief valve repair I have not been inside one yet. There is a great write-up on repairing the units under "Resources". Go to the "Miscellaneous Repair" section and scroll down. Your problem may be caused by low pressure to the valve and cylinder. Good luck, Jim

[MPH 12]

The lack of lift power may be the check valve on the bottom, if I remember right, of the pump. I greatly increased the pressure on the one I put on my B-112 by smoothing out the needle with a piece of emery cloth. After 40 years I guess the oil flow wears a groove in them. As to your handle problem,,, I can't recall off hand what makes that return. Is the valve shaft that moves up and down free of rust? doing a search on hydro lift will bring you up a fair bit of reading on these units.

[BMinor8806 0]

MPH, I have not tried cleaning the relief vale as of yet. The handle spool valve is not rusty except on the top where the small pin portion is exposed under the gas tank. My theory is that the springs in the valve are broken. I guess I will not know until I open the unit up. Thanks.

[GregB 879]

If there is a large groove or step, some have shimmed behind the spring to increase the spring pressure, so that the cone seats tighter in the port.

[BMinor8806 0]

I'll check the relief valve too. I just hope that no springs broke in my handle as to why it's not returning to hold position.

[ReedS 5]

The spool should be free to move in either direction, there is an internal spring on the top of the spool that should push or pull the spool back to the neutral position. Sounds to me as though a disassembly and a good thorough cleaning are in order. I'm sure you'll have replace all of the O-rings, hopefully the spool and spring will OK once cleaned and reassembled!:) BTW the is something of a diagram if you look up a model #990434 tractor (3012 Simplicity). Good luck!

[BMinor8806 0]

Thanks for all of you help. One more question before I begin, what do I use to clean all of the parts with? Carburetor Cleaner? Brake Cleaner? or Engine Degreaser?

[jlasater 205]

Carb cleaner would be fine. Be sure to lube the o-rings with hydraulic fluid before reassembly.

[BMinor8806 0]

Guys, I removed my hydrolift today. I found that the cylinder is leaking from the from a little bit and the relief valve has a small small groove into it. What can I use to remove this groove and are there any special O-Rings needed to rebuild cylinder? Other than that I think it's good to go.

[GregB 879]

A good disassenbly and cleaning is a good place to start. See link below for more info. [url]http://www.simpletractors.com/club2/articles/hydraulic_lift.htm[/url] If the groove is not large, if it just a scratch, chuck it up in a slow speed drill, and lay a good flat file on the taper until it just cleans up. My taper had a large step, I measured the step and used that thickness washer under the spring to get the spring pressure back to near original. Worked for me, lifts the Johnny bucket below just fine :D

[BMinor8806 0]

I took my cylinder apart today and found that the piston seal was shot...go figure. Now I need to know where to get one and how to replace the o-ring in the end cap where the piston comes through, it looks like a square one as well.

[BLT 708]

Send Shaun (SBULL78) a PM. he has just gone thru this. http://www.simpletractors.com/club2/pop_profile.asp?mode=display&id=9852

[BMinor8806 0]

Well, I replaced all seals in my cylinder and it holds in place but does not lift. Where do I turn to next? control valve? pump? Also when I pull the lever rearward to raise my front blade it let's the blade down to the floor. I'm all out of ideas, I guess the valve / pump is letting fluid bypass.

[MPH 12]

As to buffing the 'ring' out of the relief valve, I used a piece of emety cloth folded in half and just held it tight as I turned the needle. You can bench test these by removing the pulley and hooking a drill to the shaft, tun the drill in reverse. sounds like you need to take the valve apart and clean it and replace all the O rings, remember, they are 40 plus years old and most likely stiff and hard and not doing their job anymore. Best to clean up anything that old that has likely been sitting for spell

[BMinor8806 0]

Guys, I rebuilt the cylinder and today the valve. The valve was full of junk in the spool area and plungers were all greasy. I reassembled with all new O-Rings. I also polished the relief valve, shimmed and it all works like brand new! Thanks for all of your input. Brandon

[Roy 0]

Love it when a plan comes to fruition. Congratulations. ^

[mohrds 5]

quote:

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Originally posted by BMinor8806
Guys, I rebuilt the cylinder and today the valve. The valve was full of junk in the spool area and plungers were all greasy. I reassembled with all new O-Rings. I also polished the relief valve, shimmed and it all works like brand new! Thanks for all of your input. Brandon

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Fantastic! Did you find matching parts off the shelf or did you have the seals custom made? Any part numbers would help tremendously. Doug

[BMinor8806 0]

Doug, any Hydraulic place should have the T-Seal required for the hydraulic cylinder. As for the O-Rings, I went to Harbor Freight and bought a heavy duty O-Ring kit to service the rest. It really is an easy process to tackle. Let me know if you need any help along the way. Brandon

[mohrds 5]

quote:

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Originally posted by BMinor8806
Doug, any Hydraulic place should have the T-Seal required for the hydraulic cylinder. As for the O-Rings, I went to Harbor Freight and bought a heavy duty O-Ring kit to service the rest. It really is an easy process to tackle. Let me know if you need any help along the way. Brandon

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Thanks. I was worried it would take 10 times longer to find the parts then to do the rebuild. I guess a trip to Harbor Freight is in order :)

[BMinor8806 0]

Doug, the part number for the cross-referenced T-Seal is: TP015-214, it's around $7.00

[TomSchmit 50]

The reapir article does not mention this "T-seal". Which of the cylinder o-rings that DaddyCat shows in the article is actually this "T-seal"? Thanks - Tom

[BMinor8806 0]

Tom it is the one that goes onto the ram piston. Daddycat has this listed as the size 214 O-Ring in his table. If you disassemble your cylinder you will see it is a T-Seal. Brandon

[TomSchmit 50]

Thanks for the reply Brandon!